Hey guys, Pex question on pressure testing.

I plumbed a Pex system using an Apollo Pex crimper and the metal rings.

I put 60psi in the system, and it had a slow leak, but a leak bad enough to bleed off after a while. So I got a bottle of some random soap bubble cleaner. I sprayed everything. I found the leak at the washer box, a quick snug fixed it up.

So now it holds 60psi. If you come back 5 or 10 minutes later it's like 59psi, an hour later it's a few more psi down. I think after 3 hours it was down to 45psi

I put a valve in line with the gauge to separate it to rule out the gauge leaking. I sprayed every elbow and tee Pex fotting etc. All supply lines terminate at a valve or are capped at sink locations. I checked every pex crimp with the tool that came with the crimper. The go/no go gauge. However again I sprayed everything, pumped system up to 70psi. Throughly saturated every thing, all threaded connections, outputs of valves, like stated every fitting etc...

I can't find any bubbles anywhere. Everything is wide open easy to get to. ???

Anything I'm missing?

I planned to insulate some of the system but was holding off. I've ran loads of copper and cpvc for the last 15 years, I've used Pex for repairs the last 2 years. Never had a problem. This is my first 100% all Pex system put in brand new.

For example, I put this hot water heater in for a customer. It was inspected and passed. Must be min. 18" copper on top of unit before change to plastic, disharge must be metal pipe no plastic. The drain in the floor and the supply lines were there. I started with (2) 3/4" pex sticking out of the wall.

Anyway, just showing semi level of skill. Nothing leaked. And there are Teflon tape at threaded joints, solder and flux on copper connections, pex crimped lines. Couple shark bites. Nothing leaks. Worked with all kinds of plumbing repairs, but not really a plumber.

I'm sure the pros would do differently





Edited 1 times.

I always test @ 100 PSI. If it loses any pressure then it's leaking. The crimps are usually foolproof, most leaks are usually at packing nuts or threaded connections. That $ 1 a bottle childrens bubble making juice makes a good leak detector.

I will pick up a $1 store bottle of bubble stuff and try again at 100 psi.

Only threaded joints are are washer box, shower valve, and kitchen ice maker supply box. Everything else it pex crimped.

Another question....

When I tightened my leak at the washer box the pex line rotated even though it was crimped. I saturated the end of the pex line at that crimp but zero bubbles. Is it possible for the pex to rotate while crimped? I thought once crimped it shouldn't budge??

I have little experience with PEX but if you are losing pressure it means you either have a leak and/or the ambient temperature is getting cooler. Heat expands temperature...cool does the opposite. But the first place to start is to eliminate the leaks. 100 PSI will help you locate a leak because the gauge will show it quicker. Are you using a Hydrostatic pump to get to 100 PSI? Also if your water pressure is over 80 PSI, you should install a pressure regulator.

pex can rotate at the crimp 'a little' .. just recrimp it after it moves.

north carolina.. i usually wait until this time of year when the big drug stores are selling the kids bubble spray for 75% off end of summer clearance sale and stock up.
nothing bubbles as good as that stuff.
liquid dishwashing soap works but you MUST wash it off because it contains chlorine which is harmful to things like CSST.

what are you going to do with the water that leaks out of the water heater on to the wood floor?

it looks like the copper drips into a PVC pipe..

Yes there was a pic drain sticking out of the floor, and I had suggested a metal round pan but the customer didn't want one.

A pan would be required here in NC, anytime a heater is located in a finished area where tank leakage would cause damage a pan must be used.

Differently an pan under every heater....I love Mega Bubble....finds even the tiniest leaks.