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Author:
NoHub (MA)
Ouch....that I-Beam!
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Author:
Hillegas (WV)
I know! But I was told for looks the drain had to go dead center of 40"x60" tile shower. Dumb luck just happen to be a tji smack center. Builder said cut the beam, and they would brace it or put in a column etc...
So unfortunately I drilled it, but I tried to keep it as tight as possible
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Author:
packy (MA)
you must have a real easy plumbing inspector if he passes that.
the shower drain should run close and parallel to the block wall. the san tee could be 4 feet back and could be rolled at a 45 with a short piece of pipe with a 45 on it to bring the vent to vertical. then come out of the end of the san tee with a 45 looking at the shower trap. all 90's should be long sweep.
you also need a cleanout where the 2 inch ties into the 3 inch.
don't be insulted but i would not pass that job..
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
I'm convinced that your inspector either doesn't know the code or doesn't try to enforce it.
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Author:
Hillegas (WV)
Well in this application there is no inspection. This county has no permits, no codes, no inspections...... the last job I posted a couple weeks ago was in a county that does inspections. That job was inspected, I went over the whole system and brought up concerns that were raised here and he was OK with everything.
I'm not offended by any remarks, I encourage them.
Eventually my violations will stick in and I get better each time. In this case I really messed up a few things. But I am learning. I've always done my own plumbing and considered myself to be pretty good.
I realize I am an amateur and have a long way to go to remember all the codes.
Can anyone recommend an illustrated book on codes and all this?
Things I need to learn from this:
Use long sweep 90* on everything except venting.
Sani-tees can be rolled on 45* just not facing straight up when horizontal
Seems using 45* bends in place of 90* bends is preferred?
I will add clean outs. Might make a couple changes as well
Edited 2 times.
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Author:
m & m (MD)
Just make sure that somebody reinforces that joist before you move on.
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Author:
Hillegas (WV)
Yep! I raised the structural issue with the builder and suggested changing the dimensions of the shower to move the drain, or just move the drain itself. I was told to drill the beam and he would brace it with whatever it needed.
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Author:
steve (CA)
"Use long sweep 90* on everything except venting."
- Vertical to horizontal drain- use long turn. Horizontal to vertical drain can be standard or long turn.
"Sani-tees can be rolled on 45* just not facing straight up when horizontal."
- Unless inspector or jurisdiction states otherwise, sanitary tees can be installed on their back pointing up or rolled at no more than 45* for a dry vent takeoff.
"Seems using 45* bends in place of 90* bends is preferred?"
- 2 45* bends provide a smoother transition than a standard 90*(just like a long turn 90* does).
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
In my area if the inspector saw that joist he would require a structional engineer sign off on it. Basically a piece of 3/4" plywood would need to be glued and screwed along the joist. They make offset shower drains, that might have helped. In any event I would have made the vertical offset using 2 45 bends, a horizontal offset before the trap is a no-no here.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Unless it is a preformed base with a fixed drain location, there was absolutely no reason that the drain HAD to go there and compromise the Joist.
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