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Author:
formosa-tw-rblim (CA)
Hi,
My 32 years old house has the copper pipe pinhole leak under the slab and I am debating either to jack-hammer open the slab to fix the copper pin hole or to reroute the copper pipe, between two manifolds in between where the pin-hole leak reside, by running the copper pipe through the drywall stud. Any comments?
About running the copper pipe through the stud,how to run the rigid copper(3/4" Type L) copper pipe through the stud hole( boring the hole in the center of the stud, instead of notching the edge of the stud) in the tight and close space?
Also any thoughts on the pro-press fitting?
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
packy (MA)
depending on the wall layout. sometimes you can drill all the holes you need plus a few extra to get you to the end of the wall. then you can slide a length of straight pipe in from the end all the way thru.
as for pro press, they work well but the tool is very expensive.
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Author:
pbw (OH)
I have pushed pex tubing through the old copper. pex can be purchased for either 3/4 or 1/2 inch. if you have 1/2 in copper under the slab, use 3/8 plastic. hopefully there are no kinks or soldered fittings under the floor. by using compression fittings the tubing can be reconnected at either end. problem solved. no jackhammering
or opening up walls.
Hint; cut an angle at the end of tubing, it will glide easier
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Author:
formosa-tw-rblim (CA)
Sorry for the late reply. Thank you for the suggestion as to how to run the copper through the stud.Yes, if possible, I will run the straight pipe from the other end of wall.
For the copper pipe and copper fitting , any suggestion on the type L or type K?
Also any advice on the selection of the brand of solder(Oatey NO. 5 LEAD FREE PASTE?), flux(Oatey Silver Lead Free and Safe-Flo® Solder), and solder torch(propane fueled or gas fueled)?
I has some concerns about the o-ring used in the pro-press, does it last long?
Also any advice as to the detection of the manifolds?
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Author:
formosa-tw-rblim (CA)
>I have pushed pex tubing through the old copper. pex can be purchased for either 3/4 or 1/2 inch. if you have 1/2 in >copper under the slab, use 3/8 plastic. hopefully there are no kinks or soldered fittings under the floor. by using >compression fittings the tubing can be reconnected at either end. problem solved. no jackhammering
>or opening up walls.
>Hint; cut an angle at the end of tubing, it will glide easier
Sorry for the late reply.
Yes. If possible, I will try to avoid the jack-hammering and wall opening. As to pushing the pex tubing through the old copper, will the water pressure be good enough to feed the rest of the branch lines when it drop from 3/4 to 1/2 for the main?
Also is PEX absolutely better than copper? I heard that the nature of copper pipe help kill the bacteria in the water if it occur.
Is it possible that the sodium in the salt for the water softner might damage the copper pipe?
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