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Author:
FritzL (NY)
just discovered a leaking 1/4T shutoff on a sink. 10yo BrassCraft chrome.
can't those be repacked or something or to I have to sweat anew?
I assume its sweat, but it has a dress escutcheon behind it.
Edited 2 times.
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
It depends on who the manufacture is. Is it a 1/4 turn chrome stop ? Most of them have to be replaced when they start leaking.
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Author:
exapprentice30 (MA)
If it s leaking from the handle on a ball valve you can remove the handle and there is a thin brass nut you could tighten. If its leaking from a solder joint it need s to be replaced with a sweat, compression, or a shark bite valve.
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Author:
FritzL (NY)
appears to be leaking from the ball valve, not the solder joint (if indeed it was sweat).
I assume shut the house main down to see if there is a nut to tighten?
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Author:
packy (MA)
that is not soldered.
i'm gonna say it is 3/8 threaded stop screwed onto a brass nipple
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Author:
FritzL (NY)
better yet.
the supply risers are older type rigid chromed copper. Should these be replaced with braided ss compression types?
Are all brands pretty much the same or should I stick with BrassCraft?
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Author:
FritzL (NY)
this is with the cover off and the valve as well as the faucet off. Driplets.
But since the hw and cw combine to a common spout, does this point to a leaky cw valve?
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
the leak is somewhere at the TOP connection to the faucet
the water drops are 'running' down the supply tube, around the stop, and dripping from there (the low point)
simply tighten the top connection slightly
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
FritzL (NY)
I think either the taper at the top of the riser is damaged or corroded. I tightened a tad, still seeing water at the top nut.
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Author:
packy (MA)
take the nut off and put some pipe dope around the taper etc. then re-tighten.
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