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Author:
DIYBlonde (CA)
My Water Heater blew the TPR valve also I called the Home Warranty. Plumber says pressure to my house is 120 pounds so I need a new Valve at my water supply point.
Evidently the Warranty people allow them to charge for "modifications".
So I pay $$$ service fee, then the plumber wants $$$ for "modifications" - wouldn't that be part of the installation?
Here are links to my valve and the new valve to be installed:
[www.instagram.com]
[www.instagram.com]
I must also pay $$$ for new TPR valve on the Water Heater as Warranty doesn't pay for "secondary damage". RIP-OFF, such a circular argument.
In addition, it's been 7 days and they are finally supposed to come today to repair. Water Heater still leaking all over garage even though I turned off water supply and heater part.
Any thoughts from the Gallery??
DIYBlonde
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Author:
NoHub (MA)
Sorry to hear this but I don't think this forum discusses Prices/pricing. I can tell you I believe those "Home warranties" are worthless...as your finding out now.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
They are not really "worthless", and I am well in front of mine right now, but the companies DO try to add on whenever they can since that is where they really make their money. When my water heater went bad, the company wanted $240.00 in "necessary modifications". I told him NONE of them were necessary so just install the heater and I would take care of them. He said, either they do everything or they don't do anything, so I told him goodby and had the warranty company pay me to install it myself. The relief valve on the heater does NOT usually have to be replaced when it discharges and the pressure is reduced below its set point.
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Author:
DIYBlonde (CA)
Thanks, I am not actually asking for a price, but more to determine IF there are truly "Modifications" necessary to replace the Pressure Regulator Valve at my Water Supply point. Sure seems straightforward - remove the old and install the new. Plumber said something about the old one being soldered so he must cut it off and "modify" the pipe for the new one. They probably don't get squat from the Home Warranty company, so are they adding on unnecessary charges in order to make money on the job?
As for the TPR, how will I be able to tell that it is actually bad or they just want to up sell the job?
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Author:
packy (MA)
i agree with my fellow "baystater". they are worthless to the average homeowner. changing a TPR on a water heater costs about 12 dollars in parts and take less than 5 minutes.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
quote; take less than 5 minutes.
True, but we do NOT bill by "5 minute" intervals.
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Author:
DIYBlonde (CA)
I am happy to pay for work that is necessary, but I am not qualified to determine what is and isn't.
Could it really be two fifty to "modify" the pipe for the pressure regulator valve?
Is the TPR actually bad? How to tell?
Thanks
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Author:
george 7941 (Canada)
It is less than an hour of work to install a pressure regulator.
If your water pressure is no more than 120 psi and the TRP is still discharging, even if very slowly, then, yes, the TRP is defective. They do go bad sometimes when they relieve excess pressure because debris gets caught in it and they don't seal properly.
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
Your valve has a union on the inlet side. All that needs to be done is unscrew the union, and then unscrew the PRV. There is no need to cut any pipes or do any soldering.
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Author:
DIYBlonde (CA)
Thanks a lot. The TPR is draining water even though I turned off the water supply to the heater days ago.
In regards to the PRV, I believe what the plumber has told me, but at some point when the charges add up to almost what my own plumber told me, and I have a warranty, what the heck is the warranty paying for? Seems to be nothing....
And it's been 7 days and still, it's not fixed...
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Author:
DIYBlonde (CA)
WOW, so "if" the plumber shows up today, I'll stand and watch the whole time. If that's all he has to do, then what "modifications" could he possibly charge me for??
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Author:
DIYBlonde (CA)
Except that the part he wants to use is a cheap double union big box store part which would make it necessary to make "modifications".
There's the rub - If he had the Wilkins part, he could simply unscrew the union, then screw off the top end, and put a new part in. But since there isn't a second union, and the only part he brought won't fit to the Wilkins union, he'll have to make modifications that will cost me extra money. He saves less than thirty on the part but the mods cost me hundreds. This stinks!!
I had the water company come out and they said the gate valve (inlet) needs replacing as well and no reputable plumber should leave that undone as it's 40 years old and at the end of it's life and he wouldn't even suggest touching/operating it as it could fail. But there is no way to do anything with the PRV without disturbing the gate valve so it should be replaced at the same time.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
1. THE double union is a better installation
2. There is not enough room to "unscrew" the old valve since it only has a single union
3. HOW it installs depends on whether the new unions or threaded, (not likely), or sweat, (most likely), which would change what he has to do to install it
4. PRV union are almost NEVER compatible with a different make or model valve.
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Author:
DIYBlonde (CA)
Good Day PLBG Posters and Kind Participants!!
I want to thank you all for your assistance with my plumbing dilemma! Finally, after two weeks with no hot water and pressure coming in to my house at 120psi, the repairs are done.
It was not without a fight, though. Between the Home Warranty people and the plumber they sent - who called just about everything a 'modification' - it took two weeks. I had to hold my ground and insist that there were no mods needed. How can it be a mod if it looks exactly the same before and after only with new valves? Those are REPAIRS, not mods. The plumbing company tried to say they were mods as the new valve is lead-free. The list of lies and excuses is very long.
The HW folks, once you get past the ones who answer the phone and into other departments (escalation, authorizations and customer relations) were actually reasonable and finally agreed to cover all repairs for my copay only.
The plumber who did the repairs was here less than one hour. I watched everything he did, and I think with the proper tools, I could do it myself! Next time... The gate valve is about shot and he didn't even say anything about it.
Bless You All, (almost a) DIYBlonde
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