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Author:
cvcman (NY)
Ok im finally tiling my bath floor...ive waited 29 yrs thinking the small 1" blue tiles would come back in style but they didn't...
So tomorrow im pulling the toilet and dreading it,,,it doesn't leak now and never has that's why...question is my finshed floor is going to end up about 3/8" or a little less in height...so....I know you pros don't like the thick ring with the horn so should I double the standard ??
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Author:
packy (MA)
no, get a toilet flange extension kit. simple fix..
use wax between the rings and use solid brass bolts and nuts.
as long as the existing flange is screwed to the floor, use an extra washer and nut to bolt the rings together.
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
I gotta see what I got first,,its cast iron 4" service weight...but im not sure what the flange looks like,,,ill post a pic in the morning,,,will you be around in the morning to see it ?....its a 4 bolt toilet and an oldie but...you can flush a woodchuck down this baby with NO plugging !
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
k..I will post and keep my eye out for your ideas,,,thank you
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Author:
steve (CA)
"my finshed floor is going to end up about 3/8" or a little less in height"
If your finished floor is going to be 3/8" lower than it is now, and the flange is on top of the small blue tiles, then the flange will be 3/8" too high.
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
hum spoke wrong....when im done,,the finished floor will be about 1/4 to 3/8 " ABOVE the flange...pics soon,,thank you
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
Ok...it's a casst flange and it willl end up being about 1/4" above my new floor..also he had a plastic horn wax ring and I've been. Here 30 yrs and it never leaked
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
hum everyone still in bed
this cast flange is like 7" across,,,normal ??
I got new brass bolts or the flange AND new brass bolts for the front two that screw into the floor
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
1/4" hardee-backer, and maintain the floor height?
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
Yes...but after putting everything down...the flange sits about 1/4" or slightly more ABOVE the floor...is that OK???
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Author:
packy (MA)
quit making fun of me.. i got up before breakfast this morning...
a 4 inch cast iron flange will have an opening big enough to fit over 4 inch cast iron pipe with space for oakum and lead. then the ring is about 3/4 inch on each side. so 7 inch is about right.
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Author:
packy (MA)
1/4 inch is about perfect..
i would not use a wax with a plastic extension.
with a true 4 inch flange opening it would do no harm but if you ever had to run a toilet auger down the toilet it may catch the spring thing on the end.
remember solid brass bolts and nuts.
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
yup got all 4 brass bolts,,,,thick or thin wax or doesn't matter ???
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Author:
packy (MA)
if the top of the flange sets 1/4 inch higher than the finish floor, a thin wax is plenty..
i'm of the school that puts the wax on the bowl to set it.
i turn the bowl upside down, put the wax over the horn, smush it around a little so it won't fall off, put a bead of clear silicone caulk around the rim of the bowl, leaving the back empty so if there is a leak, you will see it. then lift the bowl into place and gently twist it back and forth (just a few degrees) until it bottoms out. then put the plastic washer that holds the cap, the metal washer and then the nut. i tighten the nut with a screwdriver type nut driver. then immediately wipe up the silicone and wash it off with denatured alcohol.
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
ok re-measure....the flange is about 3/16" not 1/4" above finished floor,,,my ocd is kicking in,,,still good with thin wax or should I use the thick ?
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Author:
packy (MA)
thin... as you set the bowl, you will get a sense that something is contacting something but the rim of the bowl will actually not be contacting anything. what you feel is the wax contacting the flange.
so now push downward while twisting ever so slightly until the bowl itself contacts the floor. at that point all that is left is to measure from the wall to the bolt holes for the tank to make sure it is straight. tighten and clean up the caulking before installing the tank..
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
but...I didn't take the tank off.....probably would have lightened it up huh......this is a 3 bolt tank too....its an old toilet but in great condition
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
OK I'm going to remove the tank before installing,is there more than one size rubber donut gasket that goes between tank and bowl? This one never seemed to compress all the way? And is there a. Best kit to buy?
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
just to 'back stop' in case of miscommunication:
the TOP of the flange will be 1/4" (give or take) above the floor = good to go
the 'principle' is:
the wax (theoretically) only stops sewer gas and splashing - the do'do flows away by gravity
yeah, i know what you're thinking, try and invent a better READILY SERVICEABLE system
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
Edited 2 times.
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
Yup got that...im about 3/16 above finished floor,,,,removed the tank, mounted the bowl,,,,it lined up pretty good due to 4 bolt base...how tight on these bolts ??? This is an old Mansfield HEAVY base bowl...I assume the front two bolts are just o help with the base not moving...
I bought a new Flushmaster kit for the tank,,,,my old set up the tank sitting up off the bowl base,,,should I just use the beveled gasket instead of the thick one that comes with the kit ??
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
Oh also, I dumped about 4, 3 gallon pails of water down it,,,don't see any leaks around the base or I the basement....how long before I know it wont leak ??
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Author:
packy (MA)
immediately...
be careful with the tank to bowl gasket. a 3 bolt connection is stronger and more stable but if the gasket is too thick you will have trouble.
tighten the bolts with a screwdriver type nut driver. push down on the tank as you tighten.
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
My bolts came with wing nuts so they are hand tightened..same as on my old tank but thhis one seemed to sit down nicer!
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
Also I forgot to caulk around the base,,,should I do it now ??? Its setting on porcelain tiles,,,white marblized
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
leave 1-2" NOT caulked at the back (or at a 'low spot') so you can spot a leak
if your floor is constantly wetted from 'spillage', caulk the 1-2" gap after you are satisfied there are no leaks
IMO: 10 days is good
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
whats the reason for caulking the base ??..I always get I all over the place
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Author:
steve (CA)
To keep floor cleaning water and other liquid stuff from getting under the bowl and getting funky.
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
Silicone looks bad when it collects dirt,,,wonder how latex would do ??
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Author:
sharp1 (IL)
I use matching grout and keep it to a minimum when the toilet is on a ceramic tile floor. Use grout sealer to keep it clean.
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
You know its weird....this grout says "do not seal"...why the heck not ??
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
use the clear silicone that comes in a 'toothpaste tube'
cut the tip at an angle leaving a small opening (you can always cut it again)
have a cloth towel opened that you will throw away later handy
run a tight bead of silicone about 8" long - you should only be caulking the rounded 'undercorner', not leaving a protruding bead
lick your index finger and wipe the 8" run tight
wipe ONCE only
wipe the finger clean in a corner of the towel
IMMEDIATELY fold the corner to trap the silicone and prevent any 'transfer'
repeat
10-12 minutes total and NO MESS
repeat process until done
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
sharp1 (IL)
Is it a premixed epoxy grout?
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Author:
cvcman (NY)
It is premixed,,,doesn't say epoxy though
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Author:
sharp1 (IL)
I have read that some premixed grout is just caulking mixed with sand, so sealing is not necessary. That type of grout is not to be used for shower floors or any location with standing water. Dry grout mixed with water is a cement product and porous. The sealer helps to reduce staining, but it is not waterproof, only water resistant.
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