We are renovating a second story bathroom from a 1995 construction house. The drain piping is black in the basement. I think the toilet drain is 3", but not sure.

So, just to make sure my terminology is correct, I will refer to the layers from the bottom up as Joist, subfloor, underlayment, tile.

We removed a large platform tub that took up 1/2 the bathroom because we wanted to open up the bathroom. The platform for the tub was built right on the subfloor, which is the same level as the floor under the carpet in the adjoining bathroom. The tile in the other half of the house was on 3/8 plywood (which I think is called underlayment). The toilet sets on top of the tile.

We want to put Luxury Vinyl "click" floating floors, which are approved for bathrooms. We would like to run it continuously through the bathroom into the bedroom, So I want to remove the tile layer and underlayment.

Floors coming out:
Tile 1/4"
Underlayment 3/8"

New floor:
Vinyl 3/16"

So, I will be loosing 7/16" in flooring material. (roughly)

Here are my questions:
1) Can a toilet easily be lowered, or do you need to cut pipe?
2) Can I mount the flange and toilet directly to the subfloor?
3) is there any chance the flange was mounted to the subfloor already? if so, do I need to do anything special or just remove toilet and install the new floor and replace toilet with a new wax ring?
4) The flooring is supposed to have 1/4 inch of "float". If it goes under the toilet it will be pinned down. How would I install "floating" floors under the toilet.

Also, we had new toilets installed a few years ago, and the plumber at the time said there were no signs of water damage, so I hope all is solid.

You will need to remove the toilet and take a look see at what the original plumbers did. The correct way is for the flange to be resting upon and secured to the tiles. If that's what you have you'll need to cut the flange off, and depending what's underneath the flange, either shorten the pipe and install a new flange, or use a new fitting and flange. I've always secured the flange thru the floating floor into the subfloor and "pinned" the flooring down under the toilet.

agree... if you can post a picture of the flange someone can advise how to proceed with lowering it.

you can NOT float the floor under the toilet

the toilet flange MUST be 'bolted down' to the sub floor and resting ON TOP OF the finished floor

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I am trying to do as much myself as possible, and I can't have the bathroom out of commission for more than a couple days. Tearing out the tile and underlayment is not a problem, nor is putting in the floating floor. The problem will be lowering the flange.

So, I think I will attack the tear out and install of the floor on a weekend plumber ready for a Monday, unless I get lucky and it is already bolted to the subfloor.

We are replacing the vanity, so I will wait until the new one is in and have the plumber do all the work at once.

Thanks everyone.



Edited 1 times.

you are missing the point

the flange sits ON TOP OF the finished floor, NOT on top of the subfloor and recessed into the finished floor

the flange IS bolted through the finished floor to the subfloor



while it is good that you are attempting a DIY, you may require an actual plumber, NOT a 'handyman'

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

I plan on getting a plumber for the plumbing portion. I just wanted to make sure I call him out once, not twice.

I want to do as much prep/tear out as I can before he comes.

So, based on your picture, I should have the finished floor done before I call him, then he can set the flange to the right height, correct.

No, I'd want to come in and work while the subfloor is exposed. It is possible that the floor may have to be opened up a little in order to lower the flange. You don't want to find out that's the case after the finished floor is down. He can make the necessary changes to the piping, then you can install the finished floor, and then the flange can be installed atop the new floor.



Edited 1 times.

Three quarter inch subfloor alone will flex when walked on. I was taught that the subfloor and underlayment combined should equal 1.25", minimum.



Edited 1 times.

the plumbing needs to be addressed TWICE

1. modify to leave a capped stub too long

2. install flange AFTER finished floor installed

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.