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Author:
sbmmm (FL)
I am building a small addition and need to move the water water. However, I still need water supplied to the fixtures throughout the house for use during construction. Obviously, it will be without hot water, but does the disconnection of the water heater negatively affect the hot supply lines to those fixtures that use hot water? Should I make a temporary jump/loop from the incoming to outgoing lines just above the water heater to maintain pressure throughout the system? Or are the cold water supply lines to the fixtures adequate on their own (without causing problems)? Thanks.
BTW, a big thanks for helping with my previous DWV design! See [www.plbg.com]
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Author:
packy (MA)
the only problem would come from single handle faucets and showers. if you open the cold a small amount could/will back up into the hot side and come out the open pipe.
so, one of those sharkbite flexible connectors would just slide onto the open pipes. or if there is already a shut off on the cold you could just put one on the hot.
other wise there will be no pressure issues with the heater removed...
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Author:
hj (AZ)
You can do whatever you want to, or do nothing at all, it will make no difference as long as there is no direct connection between the hot and cold pipes and nobody opens a hot and cold faucet at the same time.
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Author:
sbmmm (FL)
Due to framing issues, I need to cut both pipes (above the W/H) in front of the water shut off valve. So, I was going to make the cuts and install Sharkbite push-fit caps onto each line, but I was wondering when doing this if there is a pressure problem at the fixtures you mentioned. The alternative, was to couple/connect the two cutoff locations and create a loop. This would be temporary until I re-plumb the W/H in its final location. However, it sounds like I can just add a cap to each cut-off, which would be a little easier. Correct?
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Author:
sbmmm (FL)
hj, it sounds like my loop idea might be a problem (directly connecting hot and cold temporarily). So, I will just cap each cut-off.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
It seems it would be a problem for you framing the wall, but NOT a plumbing problem.
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Author:
sbmmm (FL)
The wall housing the current W/H pipes is preexisting (and also part of the modified addition). In this section, I am extending the non-load bearing wall and the 2x4 framing is remaining. However, it is being furred out to a greater depth (2x6 dimensions) for better insulation.
So, if the push-fit cap idea works, that seems to be my best temporary solution. Thanks for the help.
Edited 1 times.
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