I'm a single mom do-it-yourselfer. I recently purchased a condo and had the floor replaced with vinyl, so I decided to also replace the toilet. I removed it without issue, but now it's time to install the new one and I'm confused about the flange.
The old flange is intact, but I thought the way to go was to replace it. I think I don't have to do that, but the existing flange is not level. The back is slightly higher than the front. The front portion is just underneath the floor (vinyl) level, while the back is just above.
I am not sure if I need an extender, with or without a gasket.
I did already remove the screws holding the flange because I thought I was going to put in a new one and they were terribly rusty. It appears that the existing setup has the flange glued onto the outside of the PVC pipe.
How do I handle the unlevel flange that dips slightly below flooring? What kind of screws should I use to replace the old, rusty ones, and should I get larger diameter ones, considering that the holes are probably compromised?

stainless steel or brass screws are fine.
if the floor is solid, you can jam toothpicks into the holes to take up the slack.
as for being out of level, if it did not leak before then it should not leak now. use an extra thick bowl wax to make up for the floor height.
solid brass bolts as well. NOT PLATED..
put some 100 % silicone caulk around the rim at the bottom of the toilet bowl before you set it leaving a few inches open in the back. wipe it up quickly and clean any excess with denatured alcohol.

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This SaniSeal may be just what you need and the bolts that are supplied with it are solid brass. I don't think you need to be concerned with a slightly off level flange. That is a result of the pitch on the pipe and you're not going to change that.



Edited 1 times.

Not a plumber ---

But always open to new / better idea's

The SaniSeal looked like toilet seal's had at last arrived in the 21st century. The main attraction was it apparently would maintain a water / air tight seal even if the toilet ever moved slightly above the flange.

Several years ago I bought two

1. First I found they were too thick for use with a PROPERLY positioned toilet flange --- and probably only for a flange which face was at completely floor level or lower.

2, The supplied bolts were only brass colored / plated. Checking with a magnetic determined they were actually steel not solid brass.

3. Check Amazon "Customer Reviews". There are some good reviews --- But there are 4 pages of one star reviews. Many complained of water damage to the wooden sub floor over a period of time. The seal material deteriorated over a period of time and allowed un-detected water leakage under the toilet.

I have tried several different seals, and have ended up going back to the wax ring. Some seals channel the water flow very well but eventually allow sewer gas to escape at the top where the seal meets the bottom of the toilet.

With all seals/rings ----
It is important that the sub floor be rock solid and that the flange also be solidly mounted to the floor not allowing any movement. The toilet must be solidly mounted to the floor and not allowed to "rock". Level the floor under the toilet if needed. Of course away's use solid brass or stainless steel bolts/nuts. When checking, different grades of stainless steel can be slightly magnetic -- but comparing to actual steel you can tell the difference.

Since you have already removed the flange screws, is the flange Plastic or Metal ? and if metal is it painted and rusty or dirty and waxy ? If it is PLASTIC see if you can find a repair flange that will fit over the existing plastic flange. Here is one from the sponsor of this site {url}[www.plumbingsupply.com]{/url} The ones I use are a solid construction and are not hinged, They work great....Thighten the center screws first then the 2 back screws then the 2 front screws

PlumbCat TM 2003


Plumbermandan