I attempted to replace the p trap under my bathroom sink but it has gone horribly wrong. After I removed the old corroded trap(some kind of aluminum that was actually a kitchen trap), I went to home depot to get replacement p trap. The parts I purchased did not fit the waste pipe. The waste pipe had been hack sawed almost all the way back to the wall. I need to figure out how to extend the pipe from the wall to under the sink more. Oh yeah one more thing, the wall pipe has a large chip out of the top of it and looks like half a pipe instead of a round one. I could call the plumber but thought there was some good advice about what to do myself first. thanks.
[s1253.photobucket.com]



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really depends on what type of piping you are working with and how much trap arm you have left to work with.

it sounds like you have a galvanized pipe that had a brass chrome plated trap attached to it ???
post a picture so we can know for sure what you have and how to fix/replace it.

22 ga tubular brass often feels like aluminum as it breaks down. 20 ga is better and 17 ga is best to work with for a longer lasting drain assembly. A picture of your issue, will help us to help you in resolving your plumbing issue.

Best Wishes

Thanks. I posted a picture. I think I need to cut out the back and into the dry wall to replace the fitting at the wall.



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You just have to cut the pipe square just past the broken area, then install a new trap adapter and go from there with a metal or plastic trap.

on a scale of 1 to 10.. with 10 being cataclismic fortitude, this job is about a 1....

If I cut the pipe square past the chip, I may only have a 1/4 to half inch with which to fit an adapter. I might be able to get more room if I carefully cut out the back of the sink. It seems like your saying I will not have to cut into the drywall. If you think that is enough space I'll give it a shot.

I think a trap adapter will fit thru the hole in the back of the cabinet, if not it would only take a few seconds with a wood chisel to increase the hole enough that the adapter would fit. Cut the pipe square just at the end of the break and glue an adapter on. It only takes 3/4" of pipe to fully seat in the hub of an adapter.

you have PVC sticking out

you need to cut it square, even if it becomes 'flush'

simply carefully notch out just enough from the cabinet back to glue and slip on a 'glue trap adapter'

the piece on the far left will 'solvent weld' onto the stub of PVC in/from the wall



(difficulty on a scale of 1-10 = 0.5)



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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There's a fitting visible in his picture. He says there's only 1/4" of good pipe left if he cuts out the break.You might consider cutting it flush from the inside with a Dremel. Then use a RamBit to remove the pipe from the fitting.



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