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Author:
sum (FL)
I have a question. OK may be like three questions.
First, from above, the interface between the metal and the porcelain, I have always used plumber's putty, then tighten from below and wipe away the excess. However, this drain comes with a rubber gasket (white color). What does this mean? Does this rubber gasket replace the putty?
From below...there is a black rubber donut that goes up, then the nylon washer, then the metal nut to tighten. Packy suggested putting some silicone below. Where should I apply the silicon? Between the porcelain and black donut? Between the donut and the washer? Between the washer and nut? Or all of them?
FINALLY, I have installed about half a dozen of lav drains and I have always wondered, what do you guys do to orient the "Tee" to face the wall when you thread on the tail piece. Because the way I do it is this:
(1) Apply putty to bottom of drain flange, insert flange into the hole on the sink, from below, insert the donut, washer, then tighten the nut. I typically do this when the sink is off the pedestal when I can get better access to tighten the nut.
(2) Apply pipe dope then thread on the tail piece with the tee. This is where I need help...when I thread it on, it will never tighten where the tee would face the wall where it needs to be for the pop up rod.
(3) I then have to loosen up the nut above so I can turn the tail piece until it faces the wall, then re-tighten the nut again.
There must be a better way right?
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
I throw the white rubber gasket away and use putty.
The silicon would go between the porcelain and the black gasket.
I tighten the tailpiece before tightening the large nut completely , then I can position it correctly before the final tightening.
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Author:
packy (MA)
the white rubber is to take the place of putty/silicone. but sometimes it make the chrome flange sit up just a touch and water will collect around it. i don't use it.
orienting the pop-up rod hole is as you have done. tighten-loosen-align-tighten..
as for placement of silicone underneath.. i assemble the washer, friction ring and nut. tighten until there is about 1/2 inch space between the sink and the black rubber washer. then i 'inject' silicone into the 1/2 inch space. tighten and wipe the silicone clean.
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Author:
sum (FL)
I understand. I thought doing the tightening but not quite on the large nut, then tighten on the tail piece , then loosen the large nut a tad to orient the tail piece, then tighten the large nut finally is just the way I had to do it.
It is really difficult to tighten the tail piece completely with the large nut not completely tighten as there isn't much you can hold on to in order for the top piece not to spin with it. Also if you tightened and then loosen it up to turn it you probably "disturbed" the putty seal you already made, right?
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Author:
packy (MA)
when i say tighten-loosen-align-tighten... the first tighten is just fairly snug. and no, loosening does not disturb the silicone seal..
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Author:
sum (FL)
packy I mean the putty seal up top. When I tightened the nut from below the top clamps down and squeezes all the excess putty out. Then I tighten in the tail piece, then loosen the nut to turn it to the right angle, as I turn, wouldn't I mess up the putty up top a bit? Unless I don't tighten the nut 100%, just like 90%, in which case when I thread in the tail piece, it is hard to tighten that tail piece with the top drain not tight.
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Author:
packy (MA)
the fine threads on the tailpiece never leak. i wipe the excess silicone from the black washer and swipe it onto the tailpeice threads. hand tight is plenty..
i don't use putty under the flange. silicone is my choice.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
when I install a pop up, I do NOT tighten the bottom nut until I have it in the right orientation, so all of these problems are irrelevant.
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