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Author:
Mr. K. (MN)
I recently had a new water heater installed using my existing recirculating pump, which is set up the same as it was with the old water heater. The recirculating pump worked fine on the old water heater, but not good on the new one. When the recirculating pump is on the water temperature is lukewarm everywhere and always. When it's off and the isolation shut offs I have installed are off, then the water temp is too hot. When the recirculating pump was originally install that plumber took a short cut and teed the recirculating pump into the cold water supply at the top of the water heater instead of tapping into the relief valve at the bottom of the water heater. So is that why I now have trouble with my water temperature?
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Author:
hj (AZ)
No, but without seeing the OTHER end of the pump, we cannot tell if it is installed properly.
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
If the pump is orientated the wrong way, it's pumping cold water back into the hot side of the distribution system.
There should also be a check valve in the cold water supply before it gets to that tee, and with a check valve it needs an expansion tank.
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Author:
Mr. K. (MN)
There was no change to the way it was installed. The only change was the water heater. It worked before with the old water heater, but now I cannot get hot enough water when the pump is on and the return line is open.
There is a check valve and an expansion tank.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
An expansion tank is needed when there is a check valve on the cold water supply line, NOT when it is on the recirculation line.
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Author:
packy (MA)
the water heater nipples have heat traps in them. that will prevent the pump from sending water back to the tank.
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Author:
Mr. K. (MN)
Can you explain if the nipples you refer to need to be in place or not?
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Author:
Mr. K. (MN)
There is a check valve on the cold line. Here's a photo from further back.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
They are NOT the problem, because the pump is moving the water in the proper direction. Your expansion tank is on the hot water side, when it should be on the cold, but this is also NOT the cause of your problem. You may need a technician AT YOUR RESIDENCE to diagnose the problem, since we are not getting enough information to do so.
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Author:
Mr. K. (MN)
Thanks. I do have a plumber scheduled to come in a few weeks. Any more info you can suggest I tell them will be helpful.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
if he is competent all you have to do is tell him the symptoms and show him where the water heater is. Then sit down and watch the TV until he is done.
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Author:
srloren (CA)
It may help if you had photos from different angles showing the connections made so the plumber might be able to figure out where the problem is. Get photos from the sides and front and the best view of how the pipes are tied into the Water heater and to the wall. It appears there is another valve or backflow device in your picture but there is not enough light to see it properly, so I am guessing as to what it is.
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Author:
SwimRunPlumb (MI)
hj, just for my own curiousity, because I never install them, why does the expansion tank have to be on the cold side?
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Hot water is "agressive" and rusts them out faster.
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Author:
SwimRunPlumb (MI)
Got it, thanks
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Author:
Mr. K. (MN)
I finally found the problem with my luke warm water. It was a bad flapper style check valve. I replaced that with a SharkBite spring loaded check valve and problem solved.
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