I have a washing machine in basement which recently resulted in sewer backup from the drain hose hole. The clog is in the condo drain that connects to city sewer and it was snaked and cleaned. I'm now determined to make sure this doens't happen so installed a campbelle quite check valve on friend's advise. It's a 2 inch valve with 1/2 pound stainless steel spring. My plumber convinced me this would work as washing machines are powerful enough but a little water started leaking through the drain hole every time washer tries to pump out water. The drain hose is 5 ft above the ground and then goes to a P trap about 1 feet below that which is connected to the main drain going out the house (the check valve is before the connection to main sewer line). I also have a sewer tank about 6 ft away connected to a sewage ejector (have full bath and toilet/sink in the same area). I spoke to another plumber and came to this conclusion. Please suggest what is the right way to do this

1. Open the existing check valve (its a true valve design) and loosen the spring. I couldn't get it to open with the wrench I have and hence not sure if the spring can really be loosened at all

2. Replace swing check valve with the one with rubber valve. I'm concerned that the lint from washing machine will eventually clog the valve

3. Drain into vent pipe in the sewer. Plumber says I should not drain to the sewage ejector drain because when the ejections might result in stuff coming out of the drain hose opening. I'm not sure if this is to code and also concerned if the lint will clog the sewage ejectors check valve


Apologies if I don't make sense as I'm a new house owner and this is all completely new to me. Thanks in advance

A spring loaded check is NO GOOD for a drainage application.

You will require a back-water valve installed in an accessible location.

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

extend the height of the standpipe another 18 inches. that may do it..

Your standpipe would have to be 60" tall, just to open the flapper.

Thanks on the advice. I did some research on back water valves and it seems a good fit for my application. It seems to have about half inch drop so I have to talk to plumber and see how much work is invovled.

I'm trying to avoid increasing the height of stand pipe as I have rebuilt that wall and painted after the backup