Ok we have an old toilet and want to keep it,,,im removing it to put down new ceramic tiles,,,not sure what ill find but its cast iron soil pipe we have been told is 4 " service weight,,,its a ranch house....so: here aremy questions.....

1) I want to rebuild the tank with new stand pipe and flush valve,,,will it be std 2" the toilet is a 1959, it has 3 tank to bowl bolts

2) Its a 4 bolt to the floor toilet,,,if the flange is junk or if it ends up being a little too low, can I just use the extra thick wax seal ?

3) the extra thick wax seal I see has the plastic short flange coming out but I thought I read here NOT to use one with the plastic pc ?? Tis thing has never leaked a drop so I hate to disturb it,,,,


Thoughts on this too pls [www.ebay.com]

Thx guys !



Edited 1 times.

a standard flush valve will be fine. the amount of time the flapper stays up is critical for a proper (not wasteful) flush. someone make an adjustable flapper..
use a flange extension kit to raise the top of the flange. do not use the wax with a plastic insert.
if the flange is secured to the floor, the 2 back bolts are all you need.

cool...did you see that ebay listed new style seal ?? Wonder if its a good one...All the thick wax rings I see have that stupid plastic lip

if it fills the space between the flange and the bottom of the bowl, it is part of the plumbing system and as such needs product approval from the state it is being used in.
as a homeowner it may seem like a good idea/product but as a professional i'm not so sure.

do the new flanges that slip into the soil pipe and have the rubber gasket that threads onto the flange leg work??..seems like they would seal up nice or the other one I saw was called Set-Rite...came with different thicknesses of gaskets, then the new flange ....

if the inside wall of the cast iron is all pitted and rough then the slide in gasket won't seal so well.

well its old so probably not smooth,,,I could wire brush it smooth but maybe use the Set-Rite system..have you seen this ??

I've used them in certain situations. I usually smooth the inside surface of the cast iron as best I can, run a bead of silicon in the pipe and then insert the flange and tighten the ring. I'm sure it wouldn't leak under normal circumstances and almost sure it wouldn't leak if the pipe became clogged and filled with water to the rim of the bowl.

would this sit on top of the finished floor and then screw thru the tiles into the underlying floor ?? Can I drill the tiles with a carbide drill ?

The type of tile determines the type of drill bit required. You should use a diamond bit(with water) on hard stone and porcelain tiles.

Get the diamond blade that looks like an arrowhead. Temporarily insert the flange on top of the finished floor and mark the anchor holes with a Sharpie. Remove the flange and using a center punch, gently tap each hole to break the glaze and have a starting point. Build a dam around each hole with plumbers putty, fill with water, and start drilling, adding water as needed to keep the bit wet.