Over 698,000 strictly plumbing related posts
Plumbing education, information, advice, help and suggestions are provided by some of the most experienced plumbers who wish to "give back" to society. Since 1996 we have been the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice site. If you have questions about plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, drains, sewers, water filters, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, and other strictly PLUMBING related issues then you've come to the right place. Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, or pricing, or where to purchase products, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups and we don't tract you. We absolutely do not sell your personal information. We are made possible by:
Author:
dshcs (FL)
I ordered a new cast iron sink. My counter top is flat. When I placed the sink in the cutout, half of the back edge/lip is setup off the counter (gap) and the sink rocks back and forth when that edge is pushed. The back side gap is about 1/8". Is this within norms for cast iron sinks or is this a defective product?
Update: I asked the same question to the sink manufacturer and they asked for a picture. I put nickels in the gaps to demonstrate the size of the gaps and took the picture. They are going to replace the sink. I hope "North Carolina Plumber" is not right about the next sink being worse. I used packy's trick and shimmed after caulking, but the 1/8" gap required a huge caulk seam to keep the lip/rim covered and away from future water. Thanks to all for the great advice.
Update2: The replacement sink arrived. Popped the box open and WOW, enamel shattered in three areas. Home improvement is such fun.
Edited 2 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
unfortunately, this may be the best you can get. the faster the manufacturer can cool the sink at time of production, the more sinks they can make. if it is cooled to fast is warps.
if the gap is in the back, just use plenty of a good polyseamseal caulking to set the sink into and wipe it as clean as you can. you and anyone reading this will be the only people who know it is there.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
Yeah, the next one you get might be worse. I usually use a thin plastic shim to keep the sink from rocking. I push it back beyond the lip just a tiny bit and then caulk the seam.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
i caulk the perimeter of the cut out and set the sink into the polyseamseal caulking. then wipe clean with a damp rag. if it needs a shim i push it in deep after setting and wipe more caulking in..
|
Post Reply
|
Please note:
- Inappropriate messages or blatant advertising will be deleted. We cannot be held responsible for bad or inadequate advice.
- Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages posted here. Please follow external links with caution.
- Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing related advice and NOT to ask about pricing/costs, nor where to find a product (try Google), nor how to operate or promote a business, nor for ethics (law) and the like questions.
- Plbg.com is also not a place to ask radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical or even general construction type questions. We are exclusively for plumbing questions.
Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:
Special thanks to our sponsor:
|