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Author:
akamon (GA)
Has anyone had the county/city replace the water meter as the solution to water hammer? After a repipe, I've tried everything: am on my third PRV, have a ball valve main, set pressure at 60psi (checked with gauge at rear spigot), redrained and flushed the system, cut off/ isolated everything and I still get wicked water hammer with any use which seems to originate near the service entry and I can hear it clearly at the meter when I cut water back on there. (3/4" main line for simple residence system). Everything seems well strapped down and if I grab the pipe near the main cut off it hardly slows down the hammer. I'm thinking the problem is something loose in the water meter causing the hammer but have never heard of or had this problem. Help and thanks in advance.
more info: installing mini restors at washer spigots did nothing. main line is copper so no sediment issues. Incoming pressure is 130 psi and have used same PRV (sharkbyte) in neighboring houses with no problems.
Edited 2 times.
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Author:
m & m (MD)
Many (most, all?) water meters today have an integral check valve making the house water system a closed system. You may need an adequately sized arrester for the entire house.
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Author:
srloren (CA)
Water Hammers are normally caused by quick closing valves. The City of long beach years ago required an 3/4" x 18" pipe with a cap at every fixture> I do not know if they still require what they called "Air Chambers" but the purpose was to prevent air hammer. Old fashion gate valves had a slow closing stem which prevented that type of air hammer. When I worked at San Onofre Nuclear Plant in North San Diego we had 42" heavy wall pipes for the Steam Generator with quick closing valves and when they closed it shook the entire more than 2 story Steel Structure. As I understand it, when a valve is closed in this way the pressure goes up by 500%. Not what you want on your home system...
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