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Author:
Sparky (AZ)
I have what looks like to be an original tub (enameled steel) from the late 50's. It's on the ground floor on slab concrete. The only access to the plumbing would be taking a sledge hammer to the wall and tile. We have only been in the home for a year and there were no apparent signs of leaks. The tub was poorly refinished - basically a coat of paint slapped on it for the sale.
After stripping the paint off and removing the drain flange, I noticed the gasket between the shoe and tub was in really bad shape. I removed what was left of it, and unfortunately, am unable to fully insert a replacement gasket. There is enough space between the tub and shoe for half of the gasket, but the other portion is literally metal-to-metal. There is very little play in that shoe to squeeze that gasket in there (unfortunately, down is not one of the movements - only lateral). I have to force a putty knife in that other half and struggle to pull it back out - that is how tight it is.
Questions:
Would plumbers putty work in place of that gasket or would I be asking for trouble? Not even sure how I could squeeze the putty in that section anyway since it is metal-on-metal.
If it did leak, where would I see signs of a leak? At the edge of the tub? The adjacent room on the other side of the wall? Or would it just accumulate and begin to grow mold right under the tub? All the above?
If I am unable to successfully seal that drain, what are my second and third options? Can that entire drain unit only be replaced? Or, do I need to just eat it and have everything replaced?
This is probably cliche, but I would like to spend as little money on this as possible, but not at the expense of causing a bigger and more expensive fix down the road.
Thanks in advance for any feedback!
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
That rubber gasket needs to be in there. It sounds like the overflow tee is a bit high or low causing the shoe to sit crooked with the tub. Depending on how the connection is made to the trap, it may be possible to adjust the tee a bit to level the shoe and allow room for the gasket.
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Author:
Sparky (AZ)
Thanks for the feedback. I just barely pulled up on that overflow pipe and it slipped out. Considering that just happened and there is no way for me to get that gasket in there, I have to bring in a plumber. Better safe than sorry ...
Thanks
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
What is on the other side of the wall, from the tile?
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Author:
Sparky (AZ)
Immediately behind the plumbing wall is the toilet. In theory, there should be access (would have to remove the toilet due to the tight space), but this home was built in 1958 and I believe everything is original.
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Author:
packy (MA)
the problem is that when you screw the threaded top portion of the drain into the female opening on the shoe, it is supposed to compress the rubber to make a seal. since one side is just about touching, it will not compress the other side. if you could force the shoe down a little (it is OK to push down in the center as it is thick metal) you should be able to get some 100% silicone into the space all around. then if you release whatever you are pushing with, it shoud squish the silicone. put silicone under the flange and install the top piece tightly. if all goes as planned you should be fine.
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Author:
Sparky (AZ)
Thanks for the reply ...
The one side is actually already touching. I have to forcefully drive a putty knife in that opening and then I have to pull hard and move side to side to get it back out. That is how tight it is.
Believe me, I tried pushing down on the drain ...really hard. It did not move AT ALL! I'm at the point now where I am not afraid to break anything and I still cannot get it to move downward.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
packy (MA)
then it must be setting on a rock.
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
I'd go with the access panel.
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Author:
Sparky (AZ)
Had four plumbers come out to look at it. Long story short - I am replacing the tub, drain and P-trap.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
I guess that means you have gone from a $150.00 job to a $1,500.00 one.
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