First time DIYer here. Please be harsh as necessary. I've tried to do as much research as possible and gone over all the codes that the city gave me when pulling permits. Basically I am finishing my basement and am just starting with the rough in plumbing. Nothing is graded quite yet nor glued so changes are relatively easily made without wasting too much materials. I am hoping to pass my rough in inspection so that I can backfill, pour concrete and then begin to frame out the rest of the basement. I have 4 questions about this. Please refer to the pictures for details.

[imgur.com]

1. Main Line Tie in. I know I need a test t. It is the first part shown, followed by a wye and then a back water valve. then moving onto the rest of the system. I know I will need at least one shielded furnco to tie the new piece in. Is this the proper way to tie into the main drain (Seen under my dry fit piping)?

2. Toilet Flange. I've put a 3" to 4" 90 for my flange then added a short 4-5" section so it rises above the top of the concrete. Once I redo the concrete I can cut it down to be flush, then add my toilet flange right inside the 4" pipe. Is this is easiest way of doing this? or is there a better way?

3. Shower & Venting. Shortly before I get to the toilet, you see a 3x3x2 wye. This will lead to my shower and then up the wall for a AAV and 2 lavs (One bathroom vanity, and a small bar sink outside the bathroom). I know AAVs are kind of cheating, but I don't see another option. The tape on the wall marks the very rough placement of the drain lines from the lavs. The whole system is designed to be wet vented with 2" ABS that goes up near the ceiling and I would install a studor vent there. Does that all meet code? If not, what else needs to be done? Or should this all be 3", since you can't downsize a vent? If one AAV doesn't meet code, could I install a T at the top of the vent and place 2 AAVs there so that more air is able to enter?

4. Inspection. Once I get the groups "OK", then I would grade and glue everything. Place the test ball / balloon in the test T, and make sure my shower drain and toilet flange are sealed with 2" and 4" stoppers. I can use a hose to slowly fill the 2" vent line up to 5-6'. Will the inspector ask for anything more than that? or what else needs to be done to pass the rough in inspection?

Thank you in advance for your help and advice!

-James



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the good... your plan for the toilet flange is perfect..
the bad.... you have too much pitch going to the shower trap. the trap itself is tipped and will form a full 'S' and syphon. the best you can do now is change that 2 inch 'Y' to a 45 keeping it flatter and install the 'Y' in the arm going to the shower. roll the 'Y' up to catch the lavs. put a cleanout in the lav drains just above the floor..... roll the 4 x 2 'Y' up as well.
as for testing, your plan sounds OK..

That looks good to me. The wet vent needs a long sweep 90 where it turns from vertical to horizontal, I can't tell from the picture if it is or not. You'll want to box in the area around the shower drain riser before you pour the concrete so that you'll have room for the drain.

Packy,

I want to make sure I understand you correctly. I am a bit confused about the "change that 2 inch 'Y' to a 45 keeping it flatter and install the 'Y' in the arm going to the shower. roll the 'Y' up to catch the lavs" part. I know that the trap has too much pitch. I haven't graded everything yet, and will fix it before I glue it all together. Provided that the pitch gets corrected, what do you mean by roll the "Y" up to catch the lavs?

Thank you for the tip about installing the cleanout in the lav drains. I would have forgotten that otherwise.


NC Plumber,
What is the best way to box in the shower drain riser? I am assuming you mean that I box it out so that I don't concrete it in completely, but have room to move it around so that the shower pan fits exactly. How do I go about that?



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four pieces of plywood 12 x 12 inches. nail them together to make a box that sticks up a couple of inches higher than the floor. after pouring the floor, knock the box apart and glue on your trap