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Author:
tab a (KS)
I've had to snake this line a couple of times in the past month (second time was a "wipe"!), and I know the problem is about 40 feet from the house. So I want to replace the line from the house to past that point. The clean out, seen in the picture, is a weird size and only permits a 2" bit, so I'd like to redo all that also.
The house foundation is stone, and it appears the DWV passing through it has been encased in concrete. My question is how to best get the DWV out of that, and what to use to seal the new PVC to the foundation, once placed?
Not sure yet if what's there is Orangeburg or plastic, but did find that it is leaking at the first joint, seen in the picture.
[goo.gl]
Thank you.
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Author:
Pipe runner (AZ)
An electric chipping hammer with chisel bit. USE EYE PROTECTION whenever using a hammer drill.
By code you will need to protect the new pipe. Wrap your new plastic pipe with several foam layers BEFORE you slide the pipe thru the new hole and make any connections. The foam wrap will protect the pipe from the new masonry mix you can add after the new plumbing has passed a running inspection.
Edited 2 times.
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Author:
tab a (KS)
I do have a Milwaukee hammer drill, but have only ever used it for drilling holes for Tapcons. Presumably I need a different/bigger bit?
Thanks again.
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Author:
Pipe runner (AZ)
Most likely you can rent a good chipping hammer with the correct bit for about $50/day
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
Here in NC the pipe would have to be sleeved. If you're running 4" thru the wall then a 6" PVC sleeve is used. The 6" is sealed with hydraulic cement and a 6" X 4" rubber coupling is used to seal the 4".
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Author:
tab a (KS)
Thanks for the replies. Should be interesting to see what kind of a hole I end up with.
Edited 1 times.
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