New to the world of Plbg. Thanks in advance for your help.

The plumber left a 4 inch DWV stub out for the toilet. I have about 8 inches of pipe showing. The backerboard is installed and tile shall begin shortly. Should I cut that 4" pipe flush to the backer board? And what's the best flange to use? Hub? Spigot? All PVC? Stainless?

I've got room around the outside of the pipe as well. Just too many conflicting answers when I search. Wanted to get the experts advice. Thanks again - Rod

You finish the tiling, install a 4" flange outside the pipe sitting on top of the tile, then you cut the 4" flush with the top of the flange.

Take this to the bank:

I will bet the house versus a cup of coffee.


The back/bottom of the flange should rest directly on the finished floor.

In your case DIRECTLY ON TOP OF the finished tile.

Do NOT cut pipe or install flange until the floor is FINISHED.

You may wrap the pipe with 1/4" of cardboard to allow clearance for the flange.





do not forget to ANCHOR the flange THROUGH the tile to the subfloor with S/S screws or anchors

(post crossed with previous reply)

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

use a 4 x 3 flush fit toilet flange. finish your tiling and cut the stub of pipe flush with the finish floor. glue the flange right inside the 4 inch pipe.
note.. the flange will either fit inside 4 inch or over 3 inch. there is no taper on the outside. hence the name 4 x 3 flush fit.
lastly, get one with stainless rim...

good advice

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

packy,

I scribe a 'horizontal' line @ 12" and mount an all plastic flange so the two notches (not the slots) accept the bolts.

Much stronger 'mount', but, if you miss, the solvent cement sets up really really fast.

OP,

one 'oops' wipes out 1000 'atta boys'

follow packy's advice

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

bernabeu, given that i silicone seal all my toilets to the floor, i'm not so sure that the strength of the flange comes into play.
i avoid the all plastic flanges whenever possible.

Packy, somebody needs to get you some latex caulk and plumbers putty for Christmas.:-D

All your siliconing makes me cringe!

PUTTY FOR CHRISTMAS !!!!
that's what santa brings when you have been naughty not nice.
when i see santa down the mall, i mention it to him...
yikes, my finger just stuck to the m on the keyboard. must have silicone on it !!!
merry christmas to you, my friend...

He said he has an annular ring around the outside of the pipe, so why would he NOT want a flange that just slid over the pipe? Besides, many 3x4 metal flanges have a "bulge" to attach it, so the pipe has to be cut BELOW the floor.

quote; Much stronger 'mount',

"Much stronger mount" with ANY all plastic flange is an oxymoron. I have seen just as many with broken "notches" as I have seen with failed slots.

quote; Much stronger 'mount',

"Much stronger mount" with ANY all plastic flange is an oxymoron. I have seen just as many with broken "notches" as I have seen with failed slots. At least with a 3x4 flange, you can cut it off flush and use a 4" slip on on the outside of the 4" riser.

jumbo shrimp

military intelligence

perhaps my use of the word 'much' was too much

i will settle for stronger


MERRY CHRISTMAS

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

ANY comparative or superlative used with the words, "all plastic flange" creates an oxymoron. All plastic flanges are useless the minute they are installed and just go downhill from there.

hj, I greatly admire all of your knowledge on here, but I think you are greatly over exaggerating the superiority of a metal flange over a plastic flange.

If you caulk them down to the floor, as Packy said, the strength is a non-factor (If you silicone it, it may withstand a tornado). I also agree with Bern that the notches are much stronger than the slots. Not as strong as steel, but yes, much stronger than the slots. That thin piece of plastic does have a tendency to break.

The rest of the country doesn't need to consistently jump on top of the toilet to avoid scorpions, so plastic flanges should suffice.

my son and his kids have asked me what i want for christmas. without even thinking i said same as you gave me last year.. a case of silicone caulking and a trash barrel to throw the putty in.

putty has its' place

to protect the china sink outlet from the metal grid drain flange


yes, I am actually that old

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

quote; I think you are greatly over exaggerating the superiority of a metal flange over a plastic flange.

You can THINK whatever you want to but I am basing my reply on 60+ years and I have seen COUNTLESS plastic flanges with the bolts in the notches, and they were distorted to the point that the bolt heads could no longer hold them in. Metal rings, not stainless, can also rust, but at least after they are removed you can use a "2 piece repair flange" to replace them.

thanks all - more confused than ever…not sure why is there not an ideal solution here...



Edited 1 times.

Because it is an individual choice, and everyone does it the way he wants to, and according to what he is working with as far as the pipe and floor opening.

Solvent,
Please read my article titled " Trouble Free Toilets " in the November issue ( # 254 ) of Fine Homebuilding magazine............

Thank you!



Edited 1 times.

I guess I am a bit biased because every metal closet flange I come across is a rusted mess. Apparently I have never come across an actual stainless steel flange?

Tile is done. The 4 inch pipe is cut flush to the tile but the flush mount flange I bought with the metal ring that says "stainless" that fits inside the 4 inch pipe leaves the ring 1/8th inch proud of the tile. I haven't welded it on yet so back to the store for a different "more flush" flange?

And these stainless metal rings that rust out? Should I find a real plumbing supply with a brand of better stainless metal ring or should I clear coat it a few times and cover it in vaseline?

guess you did not actually read ALL of my post

Quote

You may wrap the pipe with 1/4" of cardboard to allow clearance for the flange.

simply 'chip out' clearance for the flange

or

use an inside cutter to trim the pipe slightly



the flange MUST sit flat/flush to the finished floor

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

The rings that rust are not stainless. They are painted steel, usually red or blue.

thanks all - going to find a painted metal ring and a flange that goes over the pipe…headed to a real plumbing supply store...

NO NO NO

DO NOT GET THE PAINTED METAL

DO GET THE STAINLESS

Quote

The rings that {DO} rust are not stainless.

therefor: The rings that do not rust ARE stainless.

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638