I got rid of the old garbage disposal and decided to just plumb the sink drainage without it. Here's a shot of what's left there looks like after removing the disposal. What might be a proper/sensible approach to get the situation re-done right now with the trap, vertical piece, tailpiece, (etc) minus the disposal? I noticed there's another unused (plug threaded in) wall drain outlet there above where the wall drain is now connected to the p-trap... Obviously I'm no pro but with a a few suggestions/guidance here I would think I should be able to handle this.
(Also I noticed the missing electrical receptacle cover which I'll replace...) Any comments/advice appreciated. Thanks.

You need a 45 bend at the wall, then a p-trap, and a vertical flanged tailpiece into the bottom of the basket strainer. The lower tee could be used as a cleanout and use the top tee for the drain. I can't see the stubs well enough to tell you what to do, but there definitely needs to be a 45 bend there.

So, if I understand correctly, I should install a 45 bend at the wall into the upper tee, with a p-trap just as it is now in the lower tee? And maybe use the lower tee for a cleanout, correct? Here's a closer/clearer pic of the stubout(s):

remove the slip nut for the old trap. replace it with a 1 1/2 inch threaded plastic cap.
remove the plug on the higher pipe. screw in a plastic male adapter. glue in a 1 1/2 inch plastic street 45.
glue into it a short piece of plastic. then glue on a trap like this..
from the trap inlet put a 1 1/2 inch flanged kitchen tailpiece.
on a scale of 1 to 10 (10 being the hardest) this is about a 1.5

Why the tamper resistant(no handle) angle stops? In case of an emergency, you want to be able to quickly shut them off.

Following along with packy's instructions, I got all fittings and the tailpiece as mentioned, and it looks like it should all work out fine/great. I'm just a little thrown by where in regard to the street 45 fitting I should
"glue into it a short piece of plastic". To glue my short piece of plastic (about 7 1/2" length of ABS) to that street fitting I apparently need a coupler to do so, correct? If that's not correct then somehow I'm not yet completely clear.

Your 1 1/2" ABS P-trap trap arm needs to be extended so the 1 1/2" existing p-trap aligns with the center of the kitchen sink basket strainer opening. It appears that the existing ABS may be short so either buy a new p-trap with a longer uncut arm or install a 1 1/2" tube trap adapter which will install with 1 1/2" slip gasket slip nuts. You also need a basket strainer, a 1 1/2" flanged tail piece that connects from the strainer to the p- trap.

Packy was suggesting to replace the upper screwed in plug with a threaded x socket male adapter. The socket(female) would face into the cabinet and the street 45* would glue into the male adapter and the socket of the 45* would receive the short piece going to the trap.

Okay I see why how I've gotten myself confused. I've been trying to use a threaded female adapter in place of that plug, not a male one. Oops. So if I get a male one instead that should straighten me out. Here's what I have (wrong):

You actually have a male adapter, male thread x spigot(male). The common "male adapter" is male thread x female hub(or socket) and that's what Packy was referring to. You can keep the adapter you have and then use a standard 45*(hub on both ends).



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Okay thanks Steve. My male adapter is not female then as I stated and is instead an "uncommon" male adapter or male threaded x spigot whereas what I need if I want to use my street 45 is the more common male adapter which is male threaded x female hub (or socket). I could keep my uncommon male adapter but in that case I'd need to use a standard 45 with the hub on both ends. Either way would be fine I suppose... is either way any better than the other, or should it not matter at all?

Doesn't matter functionally.

Is the the elbow attached to the U part of the P-trap shown in packy's post what is referred to as the "trap adapter"?
Also, should I make an attempt to pitch (slightly downward going from there toward the 45) my length of pipe a little if I can? Or would that not really be recommended?



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the trap adapter allows you to use a tubular, thin wall trap. that is an option but the installation will be 'bullit proof' if you use a glue trap.
and, no you never pitch a trap.
keep the 7 1/2 inch piece level.

'bullit proof' I hope:



Thanks for all the help.

Nice cover there on the receptacle too, eh?
Yeah steve those "tamper proof" on/off supply valves are unnecessary and I'd like to change those out to regular with a handle instead of having to run get/find the "key" in case of emergency or actually anytime otherwise I might want to tamper with them. Project for another day, soon...



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the valves are called 5/8 compression by 3/8 compression angle stops.
very common valve. get them in quarter turn if possible.
couple of wrenches and the old ones will pop right off and the new ones will fit exactly. no need to change anything but the valve body. a touch of grease on the threads will help things tighten nicely.
for a mere mortal the job would take 2-3 minutes. but for someone of your talent it will be quicker...
nice job on the drain and electric cover plate...