Over 698,000 strictly plumbing related posts
Plumbing education, information, advice, help and suggestions are provided by some of the most experienced plumbers who wish to "give back" to society. Since 1996 we have been the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice site. If you have questions about plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, drains, sewers, water filters, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, and other strictly PLUMBING related issues then you've come to the right place. Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, or pricing, or where to purchase products, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups and we don't tract you. We absolutely do not sell your personal information. We are made possible by:
Author:
cvap (MA)
Has anyone used Caleffi's hydrolink header/manifold combo? I am having troubles with a made up header feeding 3 zones and thought of trying a premade unit to keep the same temp to all zones. I now have a 155kbtu tankless boiler one zone mixed for 300'of radiant tubing. one zone to a heat exchanger for a pool and the other zone to a 10kbtu hydronic radiator.
They work fine alone but when all three zones call for heat the flow drops off(boiler kicks off) like they are fighting each other.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
I don't believe a factory manifold will help. Are you doing a primary loop and secondary loops to catch the zones ? Can you program one of the zones priority ?
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
cvap (MA)
Yes, and the distances between the secondary loop's connections are correct. As far as priority I could but then I've wasted the extra money for a larger boiler. It's odd that the boiler modulates to a very low fire when more than one loop is calling for heat. They are three speed pumps and I've tried many ways to keep the boiler firing higher. I think it is a flow problem possibly with the high volume the radiator needs fighting the low volume of the floor heat.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
Paul48 (CT)
If it is a mod/con boiler, higher firing rate is never the goal. It will make the boiler short cycle faster. Are you running off outdoor reset? The Caleffi hydrolink is a low loss header. It's nice, but the same thing can be done with closely spaced tees. What's the make and model of the boiler? The boiler is way over-sized for the load.
Edited 3 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
m & m (MD)
Paul, the pool exchanger is probably sucking up 100K or better.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
Paul48 (CT)
That's another "can of worms". There's no sense in having a high efficiency boiler as a pool heater. Massively over-sizing for the heat load of the home to act as a pool heater is crazy.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
cvap (MA)
The unit is a q130 Rinnai and only takes care of a 6 plate exchanger heating 2300 gallons indoors,1 degree/hour rise. The room this boiler services is 16 x 24 with 300' of 5/8 pex and a 10 k radiator basically to warm towels. Nothing else. I did not have room for sep. pool heater indoors. The room was added on to the home. Originally a tankless water heater was used and when the domestic heater failed it was swapped for the boiler thinking that would solve the flow problems.
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
Paul48 (CT)
You really need to get someone in there with experience with mod/cons. Your 10k radiator is no appropriate as a zone, by itself. The boiler will short cycle like crazy if you try to run that by itself. Your radiant needs to be running a 10* delta t across it, as a zone, on its own curve.Any less than that and your just sending hot water back to the boiler. The pool heater needs to run 100% firing rate, as DHW
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
cvap (MA)
Thanks Paul. I will find someone to come out even if I have to start from scratch.
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
Paul48 (CT)
Where in MA are you?
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
cvap (MA)
I finally figured it out. 1st problem, The plate exchanger was half stuffed with popcorn packing foam. Hence the slow rise in pool temp. Second, the primary pump was wired to the control but not connected. The secondary pumps were making all the flow. And as Paul said, I connected the radiator zone to the floor heat thermostat so the unit will have enough cold water coming back. I will start filling the pool and cross my fingers.
Another part of the house question. I have a 5000 series taco mixer designed for domestic. Can I replace it with a am102r heating only Honeywell, using taco's sweat unions that are already there? The only reason I want to do this is the 3 degree differential of the Honeywell vs 20 degrees for all the tacos. This is on one of those Polaris SS condensing water heaters where the max temp is close to the temp needed for pex.
|
Post Reply
|
Please note:
- Inappropriate messages or blatant advertising will be deleted. We cannot be held responsible for bad or inadequate advice.
- Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages posted here. Please follow external links with caution.
- Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing related advice and NOT to ask about pricing/costs, nor where to find a product (try Google), nor how to operate or promote a business, nor for ethics (law) and the like questions.
- Plbg.com is also not a place to ask radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical or even general construction type questions. We are exclusively for plumbing questions.
Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:
Special thanks to our sponsor:
|