I just installed a new toilet. The flange looked good and I'm conficent the bowl was set down onto the wax ring properly. But, it's leaking under the bowl. Said another way water comes out onto the floor where the bowl meets the floor.

Anybody know why?

P.S. The floor was tiled after the flange was installed and before the toilet I replaced, which didn't leak.

your PS is the cause of your leak


the flange should have been raised so the back rests upon the finished floor


you did not have time or $ to do it correctly,

now you will need to find time and $$ to do it again




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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

You certainly know more than I about it but the previous tolet wasn't leaking, and the wax right stood about 1" above the flange and tile. The toilet flange looked like the one in the picture below. It was like your lower left figure, flush with the surface of the tile. I'm not sure how you would raise the flange now because the tile was cut around it. But, forgetting code for a minute, wouldn't the mass of the wax ring make the seal?

I would use a flange extender, it attaches to your old flange and the top of the extender will be above the tile. They come in different thicknesses so you can get the height just right.

Quote

I'm not sure how you would raise the flange now because the tile was cut around it.

That is my exact point regarding 'no time or $ to do it right, but always time and $$ to do it again'.

(notice TWO $$ in the again section versus ONE in the first section)


To answer the question: You proceed as necessary to raise flange to proper elevation and then have the 'tile guy' shim UNDER it with the same tile (hopefully) - then the flange needs to be secured to the subfloor using the FOUR countersunk screw holes provided.

The proper procedure from the get-go would have been to have a plumber remove the flange, cut the riser below the floor, and extend the pipe about 6" above the floor leaving it 'jim capped' and coming back AFTER the tile floor was done to 'trim' the stub-out and install the new flange and toilet.

BUT

That would have raised your cost

HOWEVER

You may attempt to reset the toilet with an EXTRA THICK wax ring obtained from a real plumbing supply NOT a 'big box store' - said ring will be THICK and not as soft as a standard ring.

GOOD LUCK

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 2 times.

Was anyone intrested in venturing a guess why the wax ring that stood an inch above the flange & tile wasn't enough to make the seal?

there is a space between the part of the bowl that contacts the wax and the very bottom of the bowl that sits on the floor.

maybe that space is just large enough that the wax is touching but not REALLY squishing enough??

It SHOULD if the "mass" was thick enough, which few wax rings are it they have to be 1" thick just to reach the bowl, much less be compressed by it.

One possibility is that you have a defective toilet, especially if you got it at a "big box" store, because I have had many customers purchase bad ones from those sources.

to repeat:

Quote

you did not have time or $ to do it correctly,

now you will need to find time and $$ to do it again

you need BOTH a tile guy AND a plumber

or

DIY and quit asking 'why does it leak'

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

hj,

from my personal experience at my own home

kohler 'santa rosa' single piece toilets

the little square 'inspection/test' point on the bottom juuust in front of the horn was not properly 'filled in' resulting in a 'passage' for water juuust over the wax ring

I had to clean, polish, 'rough buff', the recesses then fill with 'plumbers epoxy' to get a good wax ring seal as the 'holes' were 'under' the wax ring bearing area

ps. units ordered and purchased via the 'big F' due to desired color

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I had a Kohler two piece once. After I removed to snake the line, it started leaking on the floor. I reset it a couple of times and it still happened. I turned the bowl over and saw a "dot" in the china behind the outlet. I asked the customer for a broom straw and stuck it into the dot and went right into the water passage. It had not leaked originally because they had set it so the wax ring covered the defect. It was several years old but Kohler warranteed it. If you read the original posting, the tile goes AROUND the flange, so he does not need a tile person.



Edited 1 times.

he didn't need the ORIGINAL tile butcher either



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

It is NOT "butchery" to cut around a flange that is fastened to the floor and cannot be lifted to put the tile under it. That is a common practice. In fact, it takes a good tile person to cut a perfect round hole to go around the flange. A good plumber works around it.



Edited 1 times.

It is 'butchery' when the TILE GUY attempts to mount a toilet to said too low flange w/o any knowledge except "a wing and a prayer".

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

If it's a 2-piece toilet, check to make sure it isn't leaking between the tank & bowl. If it is, it can be hard to see and will look like it's leaking at the floor.



Edited 1 times.

He said HE set the toilet, not the tile person.