Over 698,000 strictly plumbing related posts
Plumbing education, information, advice, help and suggestions are provided by some of the most experienced plumbers who wish to "give back" to society. Since 1996 we have been the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice site. If you have questions about plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, drains, sewers, water filters, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, and other strictly PLUMBING related issues then you've come to the right place. Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, or pricing, or where to purchase products, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups and we don't tract you. We absolutely do not sell your personal information. We are made possible by:
Author:
oldearthworm (PA)
IMO, there should have been a door , or a full access panel, there in the first place, MAYBE a steel door ...If you have hard, polluted water, the heater will be shot within 5 to 10 years.. Again , a designer "goofed" .
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
100% illegal to have any gas appliance in a bathroom or bedroom.. unless it is sealed combustion which gets its make-up air from outside.
didn't the inspector catch this?
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
? Where does the Temperature / Pressure Relief Valve discharge ?
Said valve's discharge MUST, repeat MUST be visible
I would STRONGLY suggest calling in the local 'code compliance officer'.
Else you become PERSONALLY LIABLE - you are NOT, repeat NOT, insured for any acts of willful/knowing construction negligence.
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
hj (AZ)
The alternative is to seal the bathroom access door and any vents, and then install an access door from the outside. It also needs proper vents in the room or door.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
Wildduk (GA)
Ok thx. So if I seal off the access holes I the bathroom, and put a door on the living room side( below the hole shown in the 3rd pic down), then this will be a legal set up. As far as you know....
I was planning on replacing it with an electric heater but this requires some wiring, and I think gas would be easier and cheaper to operate.
The relief valve is plumbed to the outside of the house via pvc...
Thx
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
"Water heaters shall not be installed in a bathroom, powder room,
bedroom, or occupied room normally kept closed unless it is of
direct vent design.
Water heaters may be installed in utility rooms located in a
bathroom, powder room, bedroom, or occupied room normally
kept closed provided that:
1. The utility room has a weather-stripped, self-closing, solid door.
2. All air for combustion and dilution is obtained from the
outdoors. (See Figure 10 on Page 22 and Figure 11 on
Page 23.)
Note: When a water heater is installed in a utility room located in
a bathroom, powder room, bedroom or occupied room normally
kept closed with other gas appliances, all air for combustion
and dilution shall be obtained from the outdoors, unless the water
heater is of direct vent design."
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
"The relief valve is plumbed to the outside of the house via pvc... "
NFG, said material will melt/deform/fail should the temperature aspect of the relief 'trip'
You do NOT have signed off permits for this job.
The entire job is suspect and UNSAFE.
You evidently did not have time or money to do it right ... You WILL have time and money to do it AGAIN.
Plus the cost of the 'tear-out'.
Unless you wait for the heater to fail, in which case you will be replacing the ENTIRE renovation due to the damage sustained.
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
Wildduk (GA)
Wow.
So I guess I should have said cpvc. Sorry.
I did NOT do the renovation, I'm just replacing the water heater and trying to do it correctly.
My original plan was to convert this to electric because I was suspect of the location. Just trying to get some advise if there is any way to keep this gas.... Like I said, make a door open into the main living area, ect....
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
your problem with closing the heater in is that the controls will not be accessable. this under my code is a violation.
so, if you turn the heater 180 deg, sheetrock over the hole in the bathroom, make a 10 x 10 hole up high on the wall with a grill in it outside the bathroom and a hole large enough down low to remove the burner assembly if needed and put a grill on it as well and have an access panel to shut off the gas, you should be able to pass an inspection.
yes, you need 2 places for fresh air to get into the water heater closet. minimum 10 x 10 each. one up high and one down low.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
CPVC, while slightly better than PVC, fails for the exact same reason.
? A gas fired appliance 'walled in' ?
O-M-G, what absolute insanity
HOWEVER
Install a ceiling to floor full louvered door. Custom made if necessary.
Best of luck with any insurance claim, if the finished basement was not inspected and given a C of O.
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
Edited 2 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
Wildduk (GA)
Packy,
thx for the input. Those are the kind of ideas I'm looking for to move forward with this. Next to going electric, I think that could be on option.
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
hj (AZ)
As long as it is completely "sealed off" from any bedroom or bathroom it will work.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
hj (AZ)
quote; ? A gas fired appliance 'walled in' ?
NOW, WHO said anything about being "walled in"? He has to create a "closet" with a door on it. The closet either has to have a louvered door or air inlets and outlets in it.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
to repeat:
Quote
Install a ceiling to floor full louvered door. Custom made if necessary.
Best of luck with any insurance claim, if the finished basement was not inspected and given a C of O.
in addition, for your family's and the public's safety:
have the work inspected and signed off
signed,
John S. Bernabeu
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Please note:
- Inappropriate messages or blatant advertising will be deleted. We cannot be held responsible for bad or inadequate advice.
- Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages posted here. Please follow external links with caution.
- Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing related advice and NOT to ask about pricing/costs, nor where to find a product (try Google), nor how to operate or promote a business, nor for ethics (law) and the like questions.
- Plbg.com is also not a place to ask radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical or even general construction type questions. We are exclusively for plumbing questions.
Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:
Special thanks to our sponsor:
|