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Author:
daveg (MO)
I'm remodeling my kitchen and changing out old valves, flexible tubing connectors, etc. My house was built circa 1945 and although the hot water line in the kitchen looks to have been replaced with copper in the last 10-15 years, the cold water supply line is still the original threaded iron. The old cold water valve was definitely leaking a bit so replacing was a must since new wood cabinets are going in.
I've tried applying plenty of tape over the base of the threads and using joint compound- it's still drip leaking. I've also tried soldering the connection, but the solder won't adhere to the old iron pipe even after cleaning with a wire brush and flux.
I think it is possible the threaded end of the pipe that I am trying to thread the water valve onto maybe partially deformed even though the valve seems to fit over it snuggly. My first question: is there some amount of time I should wait for the joint compound to dry (after attaching the valve) before cutting the water supply back on? The directions on the tube of compound don't mention there being an amount of time it needs to cure or adhere to the new connection.
After having these problems I devised the back up plan of replacing the pipe altogether with copper. However, if I want to connect it securely I have to unseat it along with the hexagonal nut it locks into (which connects to an elbow connector) before I can put in a 2 inch black iron threaded nipple and copper adapter. That is proving tricky because the connection is in the basement rafters, is incredibly hard to budge and also is difficult to put a wrench on. My second question: should I continue trying to thread the valve on the old iron pipe or should I just give up and focus on replacing the iron pipe with copper even though I will probably have to call a plumber at that point?
Thanks for your time!
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Author:
RRWA (WA)
Please post a picture.
No, you don't need to wait for the joint compound to dry.
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Author:
steve (CA)
Your putting in new cabinets. Get rid of the galvanized pipe.
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Author:
packy (MA)
is there enough room to 'safely' heat the joint you want to take apart?
if yes, heat the nipple you want to remove nice and hot. it will come out easier..
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
You don't want any black iron nipples in your domestic water system, you can use a galvanized nipple if worse comes to worse. The threads on your existing pipe have likely eroded away enough that it will be difficult at best to get a leak free connection at that point.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
The way you are going at it, you will probably turn a small job into a major remodel,and you probably need a plumber,
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Author:
daveg (MO)
And that is exactly what I am trying to avoid by asking you experienced plumbers for advice- so I thank you all!
I think the best bet for me might be to use a dresser coupler fitting for this problem. Should I cut off the threading on the pipe with a hack saw before I try to join it to the dresser? Has anyone had any experience using dresser fittings on old galvanized steel pipes?
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
Use a sawzall, or hacksaw, and cut the pipe back to a point where you can work on it. Then, replace it with copper.
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