Hi folks. I am trying to install a pressure reducing valve on 3/4 copper pipe. Problem is, there is no wiggle room, not even the 1" to get a shark bite connector attached. After I cut the pipe I cant move it either way. I can't move the either way. I'm trying to install just above where the water line enters the house and I have the ceiling on the other side.

I plan to use shark bites. Last question, is it a bad idea to thread the shark bite after attaching it to the other end? Someone said you spinning the shark bite teeth on the pipe could cut the pipe and lead to a leak? Any truth to that?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Mike

Can you post a photo?

I use PRVs which have two unions and I do not use Sharkbites.

You can spin the sharkbite as much as you want. The O-ring is what makes watertight seal and it won't hurt the pipe by spinning. I would try to use the sweat unions that come with the reducing valve. It will have to be replaced at some point in the future.

Hey all! Just a brief note to say thanks and to let you know that my real job has kept me from returning to my project at one of my rentals. I hope to have pics and more details by Friday.

Mike

p.s., thanks for being polite and courteous, unlike members on some forums.



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If you don't want to do any soldering, buy a PRV with 2 unions. Install 2 sharkbite male adapters and screw the union flanges from the PRV to them. Slip the PRV in between the flanges and tighten the union nuts.

Check if you lose your electric ground if it is not attached in the proper place. O-rings and shark bites make me umcomfortable, but it is an option. Also determine if you can install the ball valve closer to the ground. Photo would help here.



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As noted earlier, I will get pictures loaded this weekend. But, in the meantime, I've got a couple questions. I think I'm correct in stating that the purpose of the unions is that they allow you to easily swap out whatever is between them. In this case that would be the PRV. But, unless I'm missing something, wouldn't shark bites by themselves afford you the same opportunity? If yes, then wouldn't using shark bites with unions be redundant? I'm sure I'm missing something!

Thanks!

Mike

With unions you do not have to have any wiggle room, just loosen the large nuts and the PRV will slide out.
With Sharkbites you're going to need some wiggle room. If you use both you won't have to sweat any fittings or have wiggle room.

Okay guys, I know this is going to seem really basic, and you're probably thinking this guy has no business, but I'm just more nervous than ignorant. This is a rental of mine and I'm just more nervous than I would be if I was working on my own home! Anyway, I've attached a picture to show you what I'm working with and I wanted to ask a few questions. The first step is to attach #2 to #3. I then push that onto #1. Repeat for the other side. You'll notice that I don't have a #3 for the other side. The PRV only came with one #3 (sorry, but what would that collectively be called? I realize that its a nut - not sure what to call the other piece!). I have a great plumbing supply shop here in town. I assume that I can buy another #3. If not, is it necessary to have one on each side? I'm sure I can return the PRV and get another that comes with two #3s, assuming that they make such a PRV. One final question. To determine the total length of pipe that I need to remove, I assume that I screw everything together (in the photo, this would be 2-5 (if I get another #3, I'll add that to the mix), measure it and subtract 2" to allow for the pipe to recess into the sharkbite on each end an 1".

Thanks again to all. I do appreciate your help and respect!

Mike





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I know you stated the pipes can't be moved away (end to end) from each other, but can they be pulled away from the wall or ceiling a little bit? If yes, Teflon tape(or paste dope) the threads on #5 and screw into #4. Tape or dope the threads on #2 and screw it into #3. Screw #3 to #4 and get a measurement of what distance you will need between the 2 copper pipe ends. Cut the section out of the copper pipe and debur the ends. Unscrew #3 from #4. Pull #6 away from wall/ceiling and push #5/#4 on to #6. Pull #1 away from wall/ceiling, slide on nut for #3, push #2/#3 on to #1 and then screw the nut for #3 onto #4, making sure the o-ring is it place.

Okay Guys, I wanted to follow-up and let you know that when I finally got up enough nerve to make the first cut, it took a grand total of about 13 minutes to get this installed. I took my time making sure that I have everything measured correctly and it paid off. No leaks and it worked just as it was supposed to. I just wanted to give a big thanks for all the help AND moral support on this small but milestone project for me.

Mike





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