I posted a picture of this some time ago when I first noticed it, but back then the unit was occupied and I didn't want to take anything apart when there isn't a problem.

Now that the unit is vacant I have decided to do something about it.

First, a picture of the kitchen sink cabinet. Typical setup with the disposer then the p-trap running to the wall.



The only thing is there is a series of fittings from the p-trap wall tube to the wall.

Starting with the tubular 1.5" p-trap -> an adapter from 1.5" tubular to 1.5" SCH 40 -> a short piece of pipe -> 1.5" X 2" transition coupling.





On top of that, all the way to the back, there is some hard putty or something there. I don't think anyone would put this there unless there is some sort of leak?



Ideally I would like to put in a trap adapter. But I don't like the putty there and I don't like so many fittings.

Any recommendations as to where I should start cutting?

My current plan is to break up that plastic escutcheon all the way in the back there and see what's under there, 2" pipe or something else. That would give me a better idea without breaking this convoluted thing up.

I have six pack with me just in case.



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looks like someone used epoxy for some reason known only to them?? if you break away that plastic flange, there may be enough bare pipe to glue on a new fitting.
i would put a 2 x 2 x 1 1/2 "Y" with a 2 inch end cleanout. use the 1 1/2 to hard pipe a real trap not one of those toy traps.
it will look like this but only one trap. cleanout facing you and drain with trap going to the side.

Packy if I use a 2x2x1.5 Y would the whole thing sticks too far off the wall? Also the CO would be right behind the disposer so if it needs to be snaked the disposer needs to be removed?

OK I removed the flange and it seems like 2" pipe, so I went ahead a cut it.









I have about 3/4" of 2" PVC pipe sticking out of the back of the cabinet. So that is my starting point.

I originally had planned on putting a 2" coupling onto this pipe, then into it a 1.5X2 bushing, then into that a street trap adapter. That would give me some play to slide the p-trap wall tube.

The down side is that the pipe is 2" and I would have created a 1.5" tubular opening which if I need to snake I couldn't put in a correct size head for a 2".

If I hard pipe everything my worry is if I ever need to change configurations - getting rid of the disposer, or changing to a different brand of disposer, I may have to cut open the cabinet to get to the elbow because the hard piped configuration can't be changed unless I have enough pipe somewhere to make a cut which I won't.

I don't have all the needed parts anyway tonight so I am going to tape up this pipe and continue tomorrow or Sunday.

A 2 x l 1/2" coupling, a spigot trap adapter and then a "toy", Packy calls it, "P" trap. If it is too far for the trap to reach, then a short piece of pipe and a hub trap adapter.

You could use a 2" X 1 1/2" shielded coupling at the wall, that would make it easy to access the 2" piping for snaking purposes.

North Carolina Plumber !!!!!! BINGO... you get the gold star on your forehead today..
i would still hard pipe it. if you need to make changes in the future or need to snake it, simply remove the shielded coupling.
P/S, 'toy' traps are allowed in MA if the outlet is glued as yours was.
with 'real' glued type traps you can drive a F450 under the sink and it won't fall apart.

If I use a shielded coupling, say a metal banded one, will only 3/4" of pipe provide enough "grab"? It will not be full depth insertion is what I am afraid of and with the disposer vibrating each time it's used will it work itself loose?

looks like you have a touch more than 3/4 inch showing. 7/8 is probably full insertion depth for 2" coupling. torque it to manufacturers specs (usually 60 inch pounds) and it won't vibrate loose.
anyway, there is more chance of a toy trap vibrating loose than a sheilded coupling.

Packy, around here, the tubular plastic traps are polypropylene. What are yours made of?
Is there an approved glue for polypropylene? I use the polypropylene all the time and have never had a problem with them.

steve, in MA we are not allowed to have a slip fitting on the outlet side of a trap. so, whether the trap is tubular PVC, polyproplene or chrome plated brass makes no difference

Packy, the 3/4" is the smallest amount of pipe. Because of the putty being in the way, and the limited space inside the sink cabinet for my sawzall, the blade was cutting at a slight angle. So it end up to be 3/4" and 7/8" or so. I should have tried to chip out the putty and used a cable saw to get the maximum amount of pipe but must be the six pack of beer I took to the apartment affected my judgement.

Anyways, here is the amount of pipe I have if I push a 2" coupling all the way in just to test. You can tell there is still room in the hub.



I think I can get another 1/8" if I enlarge the round hole of the cabinet back, so I can expose more of the pipe. Any idea how to do that? I can't use a hole saw as there is nothing to drill the center bit into. I might need to cut a round hole in a piece of 2x4 to use as a drill guide. Not sure it's worth it to this.



Originally this is what I bought for this. 2" coupling, 2X1.5 bushing, 1.5 street trap adapter.



Now I am thinking of using North Carolina Plumber's approach. a 2X1.5 shielded coupling then a street trap adapter.



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I personally guarantee that 3/4" of pipe will be sufficient for a secure connection.
If you have doubts you could use a ram bit to remove the stub of pipe and glue in a longer piece.

measure the length of the nipple that is sticking out of the wall. you can measure it from inside. figure it would go into the fitting behind the wall about 7/8 inch. subtract that from the measured length and that is what you have to work with.
a 'saw' drill bit would cut away some of the cabinet wall..

I would use a 2x1 1/2" reducer then a short piece of pipe to a standard 1 1/2" ground joint p-trap. It is the proper way in my opinion. If space starts becoming an issue the disposal can always be turned for adjustment purposes.

ravi, the only issue with that is I really would like to keep the 2" full opening in the event I need to snake the trap arm. Once I glued on a 2X1.5 then it will be 1.5" opening. I know this trap arm is long and that is why they used 2".



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North Caroline Plumber and Packy here's what I did.

I used a hole saw and drilled a hole out of a piece of 1X4 wood. Then I screwed that piece of wood into the back of the cabinet centering the hole around the 2" pipe stubout.



Then I removed the drill bit off the hole saw, then used the piece of wood as guide to make a larger hole, only slightly larger.



That gives me another 1/8" or so depth of the pipe to fully seat the shielded 2"PLX1.5"PL coupling. Into that a street trap adapter.





What do you think?

Packy yes I torqued it to 60#.



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sum, i'm impressed. i mean that....
you ask, you listen and you follow suggestions. AND it shows.
i think the staff should make you an honorary member and turn your name BLUE...
what do ya think. vic...

haha thanks Packy. The folks with blue names are contributors I believe. I am on the other side receiving advice, and I certainly appreciate all the advice I got that makes me a better DIYer. You don't want to confuse other DIYers into thinking I am a pro .