Above basement drywall ceiling is a slow drip leak from a PVC elbow, looks to be at bottom around the seam where the elbow joins with a horizontal pipe. Straight up from the elbow a pipe goes to the toilet flange. The drywall is bubbling. I did not cut through yet. I can see through a small access area on a ladder in another unfinished room but can't reach the leak from there.

1. Is there an easy fix where I apply something and it's done, or do we really need a plumber to cut out the elbow and put a new one? House is about 35 years old.

2. I haven't cut through drywall before. The pipes and an electrical wire is near by. Is it easy to use a reciprocating saw and a drywall blade (like this [www.homedepot.com])? A manual longer saw I worry about hitting the pipe or the wire that is hard to get out of the way.

3. Can I expect most or all plumbers are willing to cut the drywall for me?



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I'd make sure the wax seal wasn't at fault before removing sheetrock and replacing pipe + fittings

I suppose you're saying water can run along the outside of the pipe to the bottom and drip where it would appear to be from the pipe itself? I can only see one side of the pipe where I'm looking. The toilet was installed just a couple years ago.

You are more likely to cut something you do NOT want to with an electric saw than a manual one.

greatest tool ever invented.

Ok so putting drywall cutting aside (I'll just use the cheap tool) my main question is how do I fix the leak once I'm in there. PVC cement or sealant or something, or silicone self-adhering stretchy tape stuff, or epoxy like j-b weld waterweld? Is it bad to put something permanent like epoxy on and find it doesn't work, will that be difficult for the plumber to deal with or the plumber wouldn't patch it anyway and just cut it all off (the whole elbow)?



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can't really recommend a fix until we know for sure what is leaking.
open up and get us a picture for the best answer...

A plumber will do whatever is necessary to fix the problem.

If it means cutting out a hole in your ceiling sheetrock to access the elbow then the plumber will do that. Some will cut you a nice square hole some will use a hammer to knock out a hole.

Then they will fix the problem.

Do not expect the plumber to patch the hole they knock out that's on you.

I realized it is ABS (since it is black pipe). I read somewhere else to try filling any gaps with ABS cement (Oatey maybe?). How's that idea?
Picture:

[s14.postimg.org]



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now, have someone flush the toilet while you watch. pay special attention that the leak is not coming from above and running down the pipe. there are some stains on the elbow that should not be there.

I did watch when toilet flushed but could only seen from this angle. I suppose I need to cut in from under and watch.
Another pic...

[s15.postimg.org]

as per your pics:

the leak PROBABLY is from higher and is running down the pipe, dripping from the low spot (it can not run back uphill) which is the 'shoulder' of the elbow

10:1 odds of being correct

pull, inspect, and reset the toilet as a FIRST step

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

A plumber does NOT want to have to come back and redo something, at no charge, so he will do it correctly the first time, ONCE HE FINDS OUT EXACTLY WHAT IS LEAKING.A joint would seldom just start leaking after 35 years, so it may be something else entirely.



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As it turns out people were right to say the leak ran down the outside of the drain pipe from the toilet. It just appeared to drip from a spot on the elbow pipe making me first think it was an ABS leak.

Now the question is what is wrong with the toilet/installation... this is a 2.5 year old toilet, installed by a plumber (AS cadet). Do I just pull it up, change the wax ring, re-seat and I'm done? Could there be something wrong with the flange?

It is caulked all around, I did not see leak on the floor. It does not wobble. I think it is level or mostly level.

The leak drips for over 2 hours after a single flush. What would the reason for that be? I would have thought water would leak during a flush and dry up soon after, where is all this water coming from 2 hours later?

I have a pic from under the floor if needed but not sure that shows anything useful.

the flange should set on top of the finished floor



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638