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Author:
rstaheli (UT)
Removed my boiler... and saw this beautiful problem behind it; 3 photos below. Any options other than cutting into the concrete and replacing it?
[photos.google.com]
Russ
Edited 3 times.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
Nope, open the wall up and get in there. Really I can't think of a more ideal place to have to work though. You are inside, working at waist height, and the wall doesn't look like it is load bearing. If you have room to work from the top down over the half wall, you can dig down and keep your damage to the wall at a minimum.
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Author:
rstaheli (UT)
Wow... That was really quick. You guys are great! The other side of that half wall is my kitchen. Split level house. Will be digging straight in I guess... I assume I replace with iron, right?
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
I would replace it with Pvc if it were me. Use mission couplings with the stainless shield around them and tighten them down. I would also do away with the cleanout on top, and instead cut the pipe about 10 inches from the floor and install a cleanout Tee in that location and just use a long sweep 90 or regular 90 if you can't find one for the top.
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Author:
packy (MA)
the piping part is really not a big deal. the digging to access the pipe is the lions share of the work.
as KC suggests use a cleanout tee down low so you can snake in both directions.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
ditto packy
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
rstaheli (UT)
Again... You guys are blowing my mind on your willingness to help a poor DIYer here.
Perfect info. Digging in tonight...
If you are ever in SLC... Cold one is on me.
Edited 2 times.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
ps.
if you have an actual plumbing supply house available:
use 'no-hub' cast iron and shielded couplings
[www.bing.com]
[www.bing.com]
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
rstaheli (UT)
Done!
Thanks for all the help! Now back to the boiler project...
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