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Author:
scootr (CO)
So I'm building a roman tub using a shower pan liner type of construction (grout bed, vinyl membrane then another grout bed). Basically this is just a shower with 16 inch curbs. The flange I need to use is the two piece shower flange designed to be used with a vinyl shower pan liner (like the oatey 130 series or similar). Being a tub, I need to be able to "stop" the drain. I've located a roman tub lift and turn (Westbrass D3201 or similar) that is designed to replace the strainer in a shower drain but the screw holes are at 2 7/8 inches on center. The only shower flanges I can find with 2 7/8 on center strainer screw holes are the cast iron hot mop tar type (like the oatey 151 series or similar). Does anyone know if a 2 piece shower flange made to work with a vinyl shower pan liner that has strainer screw holes at 2 7/8 on center exists? Or, does anyone have some other means of "stopping" a 2 inch shower drain like the one described? Hot mop tarring is not an option. This is kind of urgent as we are ready to pour the grout bed for the tub but we are at a stand still until we get the drain figured out. Thank you in advance!
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
I am thinking that you will be stuck reducing the 2" drain for a mud base to 1.5", but maybe one of the other guys has had experience with it before. Unfortunately, I haven't ever dealt with designing a roman tub to help you any.
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Author:
packy (MA)
well, if it is considered a tub then by code 1 1/2 inch drain is allowed by code.
maybe a flush bushing screwed into the shower drain would fit ???
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Roman tub drains ARE 2", but the cast iron drain that the drain head fits installs the same as a plastic one. It is NOT just for hot mopped showers. I have used hundreds of them and have NEVER worked with a hot mop shower.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
Hj is there a 2" trip lever and overflow sold somewhere?
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Author:
scootr (CO)
@hj..
so yes, I've seen the cast iron ones (even ABS ones) that are 2 piece and would accept a pan liner. the problem with them (and maybe you can help here) is that where the PVC drains designed for vinyl pan liner (oatey 130 series or similar) have a threaded throat so you can adjust the finish height of the strainer to match where your tile will end up, the cast iron ones (oatey 151 series or similar) are not adjustable and they are quite tall for a grout bed application. I would have to pour the grout bed above the pan liner in excess of 2 inches deep at the drain (and even deeper 4 foot away at the opposite corner for proper slope). That's a lot of concrete to be putting on floor joists, is it not?
Shower pans I've done in the past with the normal drain flange has a grout bed maybe half that deep.
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Author:
scootr (CO)
also I tried the bushing idea (had high hopes for that one).. but the only PVC bushing I could find that is 2 inch to 1 1/2 inch has tapered threads inside and out. so, it wouldn't thread all the way into the flange and the 1 1/2 tub lift and turn drain piece wouldn't thread all the way into the bushing. And what I was left with was an assembly that was even taller than the cast iron flanges.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
ROman tubs do NOT have an overflow. They use a "flip up" or pop up drain in the bottom of the tub. Essentially, a shower drain with a tub head on it.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
quote; That's a lot of concrete to be putting on floor joists, is it not?
NO, it is NOT. A cast iron tub full of water would be a LOT heavier and it would NOT fall through the floor either.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
packy (MA)
you are looking for a brass 'flush' bushing. 2 x 1 1/2 inch.. if they even make one??
it might be easier finding a unicorn.. anyway check with plumbing supply houses rather than big box stores.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
as a last resort
(kiss)
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
steve (CA)
The depth of the mortar above the membrane at the drain should be the same across the whole shower. The preslope under the membrane compensates for the slope needed as you get further from the drain. That oatey 151 is a standard design for non-adjustable drains, regardless of hot-mop or vinyl pan.
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Author:
scootr (CO)
cool!! thank you hj and Steve both for your responses.. I'll go with the fixed flange and yes, you are right the pre pitched mortar below the liner takes care of the slope so the mortar above the pan should be the same depth throughout (or close ... it's the two pours combined is where it gets thick.)
But yes, I suppose you are right. we took out the existing tub and it was incredibly heavy and had all that weight spread out over a lot smaller surface area.. so taking that into consideration, I think we'll be ok!!!
I'm just going to have to tear up the new subfloor I already put down because I stubbed 2" PVC up through the hole and those fixed (aka hot mop) flanges are only available (that I can find) as cast iron or ABS so I'm going to have to boot it.
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