Thinking of adding a laundry sink in basement next to washing machine. If I wasn't so lazy, I would add the proper copper water lines and do the job properly....

Anyway, thinking instead of adding a "Y" connector at the washer shutoff valves, connecting clothes washer hoses to one side, and running a 2nd pair of washing machine hoses to the sink faucet. (Two pairs of hoses, one pair to washer, one pair to laundry faucet).

Would make installation quick and simple. (I know they would need to be changed every five years along with the washer hoses, but that's not a big deal).

Question is, will a clothes washer inlet hoses screw directly onto laundry faucet inlets without an adapter?



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No, washing machine hoses have 3/4" female hose threads, the faucet will have 1/2" male pipe threads. The laundry sink really should have individual valves. I would stub 1/2" pipe over to it and use angle stops and supply lines.

lots of teflon tape on the faucet shanks and a couple of these and you can accomplish what you want.
called... 1/2 inch female by 3/4 hose adapter..

... plus enough leather for the half soles ...

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Use a LOT of TPFE, not "Teflon", tape because the faucet will have straight threads and is NOT intended for a pipe fitting to screw on to it.

hj, that is my point. lots of some sort of pipe dope. in the old days it would have been wicking and dope.
at least if it leaks it can be removed, more dope applied and retightened easily.
one last bit.. make sure the hoses have brass ends and apply grease to the male hose threads so you can unscrew them when you want to change them.

If you don't want to drag out the torch, get a couple of shark bite T fittings and tap into the lines, then run 1/2" pex to the laundry sink and put regular stops and supply lines on it?

Partially do to the responses I got here, I decided to install the laundry tub in a much more permanent manner. Tec screwed the legs to the floor, used 1/2" rigid sweat-fit copper lines to the faucet (in stead of the rubber hoses I was contemplating) and PVC drain into the sump pit. (Forgotten how expensive copper has become). Anchored the copper to the basement wall. Forgot how much of a pain in the back it is to drill a hole in concrete. Glad I did though.

All-in-all it turned out really nice, very solid and durable. Wife loves it. Laundry tub cost $26 at Menard's. (Great product for the price). Paid $40 for the faucet with a pull-out sprayer on the spout and an unknown amount for the copper fittings and misc. (Lots of misc).

Thought of re-routing the washer drain into the tub and then dumping the tub into a self-contained sump/pump combo, pumping it to the house drain. Was able to figure out how to use an AAV on the sump with an engineered system. (Running a new 2" vent through the roof was my biggest problem. No place to run it and would have had to tear into the walls.)
Ran it through the county building department, the local AHJ reviewed the plan and liked it, stated he would approve the engineered system with an AAV and no 2" vent through the roof. But in the end I decided that spending an extra $200 was unnecessary.

I ended up rerouting the washer drain hose so it now dumps into a standpipe directly connected to the main house drain. (Speed Queen recommends a max elevation of 4' but in a conversation with Alliance, the technical specialist stated that it was only a recommendation and it would pump higher without any problem. New standpipe is about 5'-6" off floor). Previously I had it dumping into a ceramic sump pit in the basement floor and pumped into the house drain. Worked good for 35+ years, but sump pumps have a tendency to burn out about every 15 years or so and flood the basement unless you catch it quickly. Now only the laundry tub and A/C condensate waste drains into the sump.

Once I finally got started, couldn't stop until I had tackled everything I had been thinking of over the last few years. Took down the dryer exhaust duct and cleaned it with a dryer duct brush kit I bought for $35 from Menard's. Worked great. Got so much lint, I completely filled one vacuum cleaner bag. Also I finally got around to re-taping the joints with proper UL 181 tape and securing it to the basement wall so that it is now rigid and secured into place. No more flex, all rigid from cap to dryer. Will also be able to power rod it out from the outside from now on. (Using my Dewalt cordless drill). After seeing how much lint had accumulated in the duct (Been three years since I last cleaned it), I will be dutifully cleaning it out every year from now on.

You "DO" clean your dryer duct every year, don't you? Better check it, mine was packed with lint.

Thanks to all who gave advice, needed to hear others insisting on using the right installation I guess. I needed to get off my inertia, you know, "a body at rest tends"..... etc.