I have two aging angle stops supplying my washing machine, attached to ½-inch copper stubouts by compression rings and nuts. Both angle stops are leaking from the stem under handle plus they leak even after shut off! What is best way to solve this problem since I can't afford a plumber and must do it myself? I do have a little experience.

Should I try to repack the stems and replace the washers? Or should I replace with all new angle stops?

If the latter, how do I deal with old compression rings that will remain on the stubouts? I have only about 1-1/4 inch before the copper disappears into wall, so I can't cut it back to seat new rings. To get the rings off, I am choosing a Saf-T-Kut splitter or cracker as I fear an inexpensive puller will mushroom the copper (in this location, mushrooming has predictably already started from overtightening of nuts). This will be a significant investment for me. And someone told me it is not true that a splitter will "pop" the ring, that I will still have to fight to get it off. Even before using the Safe-T-Kut splitter, collapsing of the copper may have occurred at the point the old rings compressed it, which if it has happened, I am told, will really cause me grief as I might not can insert the anvil part of the splitter or attach other fittings.

Since I've never sweat-soldered before, my plan has been to use SharkBite push-fit connections for copper to adapt standard angle stops--then I remembered it's still going to be necessary to remove those damned compression rings!

I am to skittish to use my Dremel Moto-Tool to cut a slot in the rings.

If I can't get the old rings off no matter what I try, and their presence bars every alternative, is there any trick that would make a success of the old taboo of attaching new fittings to existing compression rings and nuts? I've heard of it done with extreme tightening, but I may not be able to swing a wrench because the stubouts are close together and nestled in a corner.

B.Baxter Matheny/9122 E Avenue Q10, Littlerock CA 93543

Ok, in the wake of that onslaught of questions, my advice is this: Replace the angle stops with new quarter turn valves, and get them in the same 5/8 OD compression connection. You can and should reuse the existing nut and ferrule in this circumstance as they are exactly the same, and will work without any problem. I don't know why anyone ever put an angle stop for a washing machine in the first place, but with limited funds and experience, I don't recommend changing them out at this time for a different style valve. Just replace what you have.

as long as he hasn't damaged anything attempting to remove the rings he will be OK.
if you have created a problem, they do make a removal tool.

Things will be fine
the advice is buy 1/4 turn compression angle stops
Undo the valve and replace with a new one leaving the compression ring and nut
One word of caution make sure the threads on the nut at the wall behind the compression is the same thread
Once in a blue moon the threads are either coarse or fine and will not match

I would add that when you replace the angle stop, use instead a washing machine valve with a hose connection for your washer. Also, on the threads of the new valves, put a small amount of white plumbers grease that is used for faucets. This will allow you to tighten the new valves without too much effort. If your angle stops have been over tightened causing stress on the compression fitting, you may have to use a tiny tim saw and cut the old compression rings off, being careful not to cut into the copper tube stub out. Make the majority of the cut and then take a sharp screw driver and use it to wedge into the cut and split the compression ferral thru to the tubing. I have done this many times, just take your time and do not cut the tubing, only the ferral compression ring. Good luck to you.

Hi, SRLOREN.

In your reply to me you said "Also, on the threads of the new valves, put a small amount of white plumbers grease that is used for faucets." Of two different greases below that I have a lot of, please tell me which you think is what you recommended, or if I shouldn't use either of them:

Dow Corning Valve Seal Heat-Stable Silicone Lubricant "for valves, flow meters and pump packings." This is cloudy-clear, not white. I have two large squeeze tubes of it.

Aladdin Teflon Based Lubricant/Sealant, "Applications: Motors, O-Rings, Gaskets, Bearings, Water Filters." Also cloudy-clear. One squeeze tube.

If neither is right, can you give me the brand of the white plumbers grease you meant and tell me if it is silicone, teflon or...

I already have new replacement valves--compression fittings to hose threads--on hand to replace those on the wall behind my appliances that look just like my old valves. (I think somebody on this website said just use same kind of valve with compression rings and nuts that're already in place if finding quarter-turn ones everyone else suggests is difficult. I'd already made the purchase anyway.) Am still trying to gather everything I might need to do the job before I start. When I shut off at Water Co box out front, first I will see if tightening the packing nuts on my valves or replacing the packing might solve the leaking stem problem. But I assume I also have to replace rubber washers that're held by screws in at least one of these valves because it was dripping at stem even though handle was tightly off.

If it turns out I have to replace with the all-new valves, as said I will try using the compression rings and nuts that are already in place. If still a problem and I have no choice about getting the old rings off, I just now bought a Saf-T-Kut splitter for the purpose as I am afraid to try pulling them.

Well, wish me luck. And again please tell me which of my greases is the one I should use.

B.Baxter Matheny

A follow-up question: When I shut the valves at the wall off after using the washing machine, and at least one valve was seen to be fast dripping from the stem even though the handle was tightly off--dripping which eventually stopped--could this have resulted from pressure that was still inside the washing machine hoses? If so, that will be a great relief as it would mean I don't, after all, have to also replace the rubber washers inside the valves, just their packing.

B.Baxter Matheny