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Author:
gregoireg (CA)
I'm renting a house and the hot water pressure was extremely low. The landlord's plumber decided to replace the very old gas water heater tank by a new "AO Smith" tank. The pressure has not improved, actually it has been worse.
I'm trying to drain the tank because I believe that there is still a lot of sediment. I hear a lot of popcorn noise all the time and the tank is brand new... I have a lot of trouble to drain as I explained here:
[www.plbg.com]
Then, I have an incomprehensible behavior of the tank as shown in the following video:
[tinypic.com]
The tank heater is on. I could put it on pilot mode but it would be the same behavior. I have turned off the cold-water inlet. I have connected a garden hose to the tank's drain valve at the bottom of the tank and I have opened it with a screwdriver.
No water is "flushing" out from the garden hose even if I turn on the left hot-water faucet. If I turn on the right cold-water faucet (which should have no impact at all on the current procedure), hot water starts to flush from the garden hose at a low debit. How is that possible? How the cold-water faucet could impact the hot water going through the tank while the cold-water inlet is off??? If I turn on the cold-water inlet on the tank, I have a flush with even more pressure.
When I was flushing with the tank cold-water inlet on, I was seeing a lot of blue/green sediment. Even after a full flush yesterday, if I start the procedure again today, I still see some sediment.
Can anyone explain to me in clear words what's happening and how I could improve the situation?
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
you quit screwing around with equipment which you do not own and contact the owner
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
hj (AZ)
The inomperhensible thing is how you think there is "still sediment" when it is a new water heater.
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Author:
srloren (CA)
When your new water heater is installed and the cold inlet valve is closed you must get air into the tank for it to drain. By opening either hot or cold faucets you accomplish this albiet slow draining will occur. To get a quick drain, disconnect the cold inlet at the top of the water heater to allow air for faster draining. If your new water heater does not drain, you have a blockage. Some plumbers remove the original hose bib and install a ball valve so you can use a long screw driver to loosen any debris inside the tank to allow it to drain. Water heaters should be drained as often as your water conditions require it. (Annually is usually recommended) Minerals in water build up inside the tank over time. As the tank expands and contracts these menerals crack and fall to the bottom of the tank interfering with drainage.
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Author:
packy (MA)
in mass, a vacuum relief valve in a tee above the cold water inlet is required to resolve this problem.
watts 36A or equivilent is what we all use.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
IF it's "Required" in MA, that means it is unnecessary everywhere else in the U.S.A. Raising the lever on the T&P valve will allow all the air necessary, without disconnecting any piping.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
packy (MA)
hj, it is a good thing teddy kennedy is not around to read your post. these mass regulations are signed into law by all his buddies at the state house. not to mention that his brother in law probably owns the factory where watts N36's are made.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
If not he is probably getting a percentage of every one that goes out the door. oops, I forgot, there is NO corruption in MA.
Edited 1 times.
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