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Author:
columbusshoes (OH)
I took this corroded 1.5" diameter copper pipe out of this spot under my bathtub
I purchased two options to fix with
I cut the white pipe but it wasn't flexible enough to get in place and the black pipe installed but still leaks
I've got two ideas: take off black pipe so that I can put some plumber's putty or teflon tape on the copper pipes threads and then put black pipe back on.
2) cut the white pipe shorter so that I can get it between the two copper pipes, but I'm concerned there won't be enough white pipe left for the washer & nut to seal with
I'd love some help trouble shooting this.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
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Author:
srloren (CA)
I suggest replacing the brass waste and overflow with an ABS or Plastic tubular one since it appears that you have access to it. You will then have new chrome inside the tub and are less likely to have a leak later on. Putting putty or pipe dope on this application is not what they are intended for. Do it right...do it one time. Good luck.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
Remove the pipe you installed, then remove the old brass threaded tube in the bottom of the tub drain. It is fine threaded, thin walled, and can sometimes be removed with a set of needle nose pliers by grabbing straight up and down, pushing to the center of the drain, and twisting the pliers counterclockwise as your are facing up. That will generally either unscrew it, or it will collapse inward and twist around the pliers and allow you to pull it free. At that point you can either replace the brass 1.5" threaded tube with a new tube and connect it with the slip joint nut and a RUBBER D-ring gasket to get a water tight seal at the existing trap. I wouldn't replace the waste and overflow unless it is all corroded internally as well, and never with a plastic drain. You can use pipe dope or Ptfe tape on the fine threads of the brass tube when you reinstall it, but nothing on the slip joint connection.
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Author:
packy (MA)
there are probably have a dozen ways to fix this. do as KC suggests. unscrew the brass tailpiece from the tee. use your plastic tailpiece with the smooth end fit up inside the tee. use a brass nut and beveled washer to seal it to the tee. the brass nut and beveled washer is already on the trap.
so, slide the tailpiece into the tee and into the trap. tighten the nuts. done..
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Author:
ravi102769 (VA)
If I were doing it I would cut off the old trap, sweat on a DWV male adaptor and replace the waste & overflow using a PVC female adaptor to a PVC trap connected to a new waste and overflow. You'll never have to worry about it again in your lifetime.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
That is hardly an amateur repair, and a fair fire hazard as well.
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Author:
ravi102769 (VA)
The only way it's a fire hazard is if you don't follow proper safety procedures. If doing it properly is above ones skill set they should call a professional. I don't condone doing half assed repairs, period! Do it once, do it right! There's never time to do it right, but always time to do it again.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
I hardly think that replacing the existing brass tube is halfassed, if it is, I guess they can redo it in another 45 years.
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Author:
ravi102769 (VA)
OK KC, how would you replace the brass tailpiece? The rear of the swing joint on the trap is a sweat fitting. Once again, do it once, do it right! (and by the way, I don't believe in Sharkbite fittings except as a temporary repair by a homeowner). Just my humble, professional opinion.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
I detailed the repair in my first response according to the first picture, which is the only relevant picture when assessing the problem and the method of repair required.
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Author:
ravi102769 (VA)
Think again, how do you plan on getting the threaded tailpiece in place to screw it in?
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
Slide the tube into the p-trap, realign the tube with the drain, screw in drain, tighten slip joint connection to the tub. If you need me to show you how it's done I can take pictures next time I run across an old copper drain that needs the tubular brass replaced.
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Author:
ravi102769 (VA)
Please do, as there is no way to get an 1 1/2 tailpiece into an immobile trap at an angle.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
1. You are assuming that the drain line is immobile
2. The waste and overflow isn't all that immobile
3. The slip joint connection isn't extremely tight and will still provide a small amount of wiggle room until it is tightened down.
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Author:
ravi102769 (VA)
You're hilarious KC.
Of course the drain line is immobile, If it weren't the OP wouldn't have come here.
If you try to move that W&O it will leak from every joint.
As you SHOULD know, an 1 1/2" slip joint doesn't have "wiggle" room.
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