Hello everyone,

1st time posting and dealing with toilet problems.

I am doing a tile job and ran into some toilet problems when I removed the toilet. The toilet flange is cast iron and is solder to a lead pipe (4" which then connects down to cast iron bend about 2.5 feet down.
My problem is there is a crack in lead pipe where it is connected to the flange. Flange is a little rusty due to leak but still seems strong and is not broken. I have to replace bolts that go to toilet base. Also the flange sits about 3/4" off the tile floor and was not bolted down.

Should I remove flange, trim pipe down and use a type of compression flange? if so what kind?

Or is there a way to seal the crack? I am worried about soldering as I am a novice. And that would not fix the problem of the flange sitting higher than the tile.

I also came across this youtube video. would this work?
[www.youtube.com]

I know the best way to fix the problem would be to remove the lead pipe and replace with pvc but currently I'm on a tight budget and a time crunch.



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I don't have experience with lead pipe, but if you can dry out the inside of the pipe and wire brush it I would think that an epoxy would patch the crack. There is a product called "Pro-Poxy that is water proof and adheres well, even to ABS, as I understand it, but if you dry clean and wire brush, you should be good to go. Can you use the existing flange with new brass bolts, washers and nuts? First you should remove the old wax and clean and dry the flange so when you install a new wax ring (I recommend one without plastic reducer particularly if you have a higher effeciencey low flush toilet) You can shim up the bottom of the toilet with 1/4" Plastic/nylon type Shims from Home Depot. Make sure you place them in 4 places and check to see that the toilet does not rock back and forth or side to side. Place two Shims just behind the bolts next to the closet ring and two in front on the sides. Make sure when you set the toilet you push down slowly and evenly to seat it on the Wax Ring. It is best to do a dry run before placing the wax in place. Draw some lines with a pencil around the edge of the toilet. Place the shims so that you can caulk them in place with Silicone Adhesive Caulk and when you apply it be sure to squeeze the caulk container so as to push the adhesive under the toilet all the way around. If by chance you are unable to utilize the existing closet Ring, there is a Brass Ring that you can bolt to the concrete. Be careful so as not to chip off the edge of the concrete when you drill for the holders and brass bolts to secure it to the floor. The reason I recommend Adhesive Caulk is that is also helps secure the toilet to the floor.

Thanks for the ideas.So I cleaned up the flange and the flange looks fine and is brass? Hard to tell. here are pictures of the crack and pipe and flange. Does the epoxy look like it will work on that crack?







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you might be able to remove the flange, gently clean the inside of the lead and grease this up and slide it into the pipe.

as a matter of fact, forget the grease, lather up the rubber with nice soft bowl wax. then slide it in. use plenty on the rubber but none on the inside of the pipe.
make sure to secure the flange to the floor well.

New question: How would I go about replacing the lead pipe? It looks like the actual bend is cast iron and the lead pipe is just a straight piece that connect toilet to the bend (about 1 foot and half). Is there a way that I could cut the lead pipe with a little over hang then add a donut that connects pvc to the lead overhang?

I would go to the cast to make my cut and join it there. Lead is too soft to connect to with any flexible connection.

I removed the lead to the cast iron but there is a brass ferrule inside. Can I leave the brass and attach the PVC to that? Brass is in good shape.