Hello,

I have a bad WH, only 4yrs old, in the attic that needs replacement. There was ceiling damage when the WH leaked and the drain pan leaked as well. Second time this happen so I'm a bit tired of ceiling water damage. Replacing WH with new drain pan. Want to install and expansion tank, currently no exp tank, as plumber said this may help with WH life and from my readings.

Can I install a separate drain pan and have the exp tank be installed right above the pan to catch any leak? This separate pan will be plumbed to the existing drain pan discharge line.

thanks...



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The expansion tank, if you even need one, will do absolutely NOTHING to extend the water heater's life. If the heaters are failing that often, you have some other problem.

Do you have hard water, or are you using a water softener?

yes, I have water softner and there are two WH.

I read about checking anode rod yearly. Tried to open the anode rod in failed WH just to test. I used the breaker bar and darn thing won't even budge.



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If I was in TX, if gas was available,I'd put a tankless on the side of the house. A water heater over head is just asking for trouble. I know......there are many, but....

Check your anode at 3 months. Softened water doesn't ever build up the protective calcium layer on the inside of the tank, so it will continue to destroy anodes continuously. You should replace the drain valve with a full port ball valve to flush out the anode goop that forms. I have heard some people will get a cheap electric impact driver and a socket to remove anode rods, then replace them by hand. As Paul mentioned, an external tankless might serve you better if you have gas. Alternateively, you could turn your softener down to allow some calcium buildup in the tanks to preserve them.

I got a quote for a tankless water heater and it's $5K. I'll check about the full port ball valve.

As for the second water heater that's working, If I check the anode rod and it's worn out, does this mean the WF is about to fail? Just concern about water damage again.

if the rod has totally failed - probably

the rod's purpose is to sacrifice ITSELF before the tank corrodes

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Beating a dead horse but ----

Very cheap 9 volt battery powered water sensors are available.

The sensor can be placed in a drain pan or even just the bare floor under a heater, washer etc. Some allow the sounding unit attached by several feet of wire to be remotely placed away from the sensor if desired. These units are very cheap insurance placed wherever undetected leaking water could cause damage. A remote sensor properly placed is also useful to detect a higher than "normal" condensate water level in a A/C evaporator unit drip pan located in a attic when/if drains become clogged.