 
Over 698,000 strictly plumbing related posts
Plumbing education, information, advice, help and suggestions are provided by some of the most experienced plumbers who wish to "give back" to society. Since 1996 we have been the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice site. If you have questions about plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, drains, sewers, water filters, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, and other strictly PLUMBING related issues then you've come to the right place. Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, or pricing, or where to purchase products, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups and we don't tract you. We absolutely do not sell your personal information. We are made possible by: 
|
|
Author:
shpxnvz (MD)
I've had some water system issues over the last year, had a guy take a look and he thought the tank bladder was bad. So, I replaced the well tank and put in a new pressure switch. Now, the well pump will not run consistently like it used to.
Pressure gauge is adjusted properly, tank is at the proper empty pressure, and when I'm watching the gauge it kicks on at 30 and back off at 50. But, sometimes, at least once a day all the pressure in the house will drop and when I go down to check the gauge is down around 10PSI. If I pull up the override bar on the pressure switch the pump will come on and pressurize up to the cut off, but I notice that its takes 5 or 10 seconds before the pump starts pumping. I tried another pressure switch but same thing.
Any ideas what the problem could be? I'd think well pump except this never happened before I put in the new tank.
Thanks for any help or advice!
|
|
Post Reply
|
|
|
Author:
m & m (MD)
Monitor the pump motor with an amp meter.
|
|
Post Reply
|
|
|
Author:
shpxnvz (MD)
Ok, I will see if I can borrow an ammeter.
Also, just saw the gauge again when it hit the cut-on point. As soon as the pressure switch clicked on at 30 the pressure immediately dropped to around 10 or 15 psi. Don't know if that is normal.
|
|
Post Reply
|
|
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
Why are you using a low water cut off pressure switch ? How much air pressure is in your tank ?
I'd bet that by lowering the pressure in the tank and using a standard pressure switch your problem would disappear.
|
|
Post Reply
|
|
|
Author:
m & m (MD)
Agreed. I use LWCO pressure switches only when there is a proven case for one. Otherwise, they are a nuisance.
|
|
Post Reply
|
|
|
Author:
shpxnvz (MD)
The tank is pressurized to 28 (2psi below the low cut-off) per the instructions. Only reason I used that pressure switch is that it's the only one available at the closest hardware, and (I think) was the same pressure range as the last switch that was on there.
I'll call around and see if I can find a different one locally if that could be the problem.
|
|
Post Reply
|
Please note:
- Inappropriate messages or blatant advertising will be deleted. We cannot be held responsible for bad or inadequate advice.
- Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages posted here. Please follow external links with caution.
- Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing related advice and NOT to ask about pricing/costs, nor where to find a product (try Google), nor how to operate or promote a business, nor for ethics (law) and the like questions.
- Plbg.com is also not a place to ask radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical or even general construction type questions. We are exclusively for plumbing questions.
Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:
Special thanks to our sponsor:
|