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Author:
jefrank (MI)
I noticed my basement carpet was wet this weekend and have tracked it back to the drain in the tub above leaking. Based on my inspection so far, it looks like the plumber (probably the original guy some 28 years ago) "forgot" to include the nut and washer on the tail-piece assembly (and jury-rigged it in some way so that it didn't leak initially?). Easy enough to put one in place, I thought.
With further study, everything appears to be glued PVC right up to the point of the tail-piece meeting the PVC assembly. I'm thinking I'm going to have to cut the PVC and add in a new joint in order to get the nut in place. Does anyone see other options or think I'm on the wrong track?
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Author:
packy (MA)
there is no nut required on that joint. that is a threaded tailpiece screwed into the bottom of that tee.
are you sure that is where the leak is coming from?
this one is chrome but it looks like this..
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
I'd check the overflow gasket, it appears that may be where the leakage is originating.
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Author:
jefrank (MI)
Well... I thought I was sure, but you're correct, that's not the source of my problem... it's higher and only occurs when the shower is on. Original owners wallpapered the closet behind the pipes (and didn't have an access put in) but I can't detect any saturated drywall so it doesn't seem like a pressurized leak, just something dripping, pretty rapidly.
Time to cut an access? Or try opening up the floor more from below so I can see up?
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Author:
m & m (MD)
Check the valve trim plate for leakage behind it and check the shower arm where it threads into the earred ell.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
Also, if the caulking is iffy on the tub surround, it would be best to remove the old caulk, clean the surfaces thoroughly, then replace with a silicone caulk. If the trim plate is leaking you can use caulking on the underside, but leave at least an inch or three on the downward portion of the trim free from caulking. That is just in case water makes it behind the plate; it then has a point to drip back into the tub instead of behind the wall.
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Author:
greekguy7 (IL)
What kind of shower valve you have?? Remove the trim around the valve, and turn on the shower, and see if the valve is leaking inside the wall.
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Author:
jefrank (MI)
I'll be exploring further tomorrow, but here's the details on the fixture... Kohler "Antique" lever-handle circa 1987.
Pretty sure that it's been repaired at least once before because it doesn't have 360 degree range like the shower-only unit in the basement did until it was repaired a few years back. I'm hoping it's just a matter of replacing the insert on the valve, but I won't know until I open it up on Saturday.
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
Cut yourself a good access behind the tub valve, and have at least 6 inches above the valve and 6 inches below the spout. If it is paneling, you can put it back with fairly minimal damage; if it is drywall, you will probably end up breaking the rock from hidden screws that you can't find when you try to remove them. A strong magnet can help, but no guarantees. Just make sure you have room to work so that you don't have to cut a second hole. It's awfully hard to reassemble a puzzle of cut pieces to hide your access after you're done.
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Author:
jefrank (MI)
This is beginning to frustrate me beyond belief. lol
Decided to replace the cartridge and mixer... doesn't change my leak and really didn't expect it to, but now I can't get the tub to turn off without killing the main. I'll be adding localized shut-offs later!
Used the parts below, which seem to be the correct items. Thoughts?
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Author:
jefrank (MI)
Seems like the new cap isn't seating entirely into the valve body so it's allowing water to flow freely. Not having a lot of luck getting it to seat... any suggestions?
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Author:
jefrank (MI)
Got the valve seated... silicone grease, as instructed, seemed to be the missing piece. Oops
After cutting accesses, finally figured out that the leak is at the joint where the spigot connects back to the valve and only when under the pressure of having the diverter pulled up. Going to redo the nipple from the elbow to the spigot and see if that solves things. If not, I'm going to scream.
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Author:
jefrank (MI)
Newly built copper nipple to replace the old galvanized one and I'm good! YAY!
Thanks for the assistance, folks!
Edited 1 times.
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