I have well pump that recently delivered a ton of mud /no pressure. Replaced gauge and press switch, also lower water heater elem after removal of crud. Pressure tank thuds on bottom, hollow sound up top. Holding 28 lbs air 30/50 new switch. New breaker w 240 reading at press switch for line and motor. Took a while but pressure switch seems to be adjusted
cuts in 32 out 53. However pump never runs continuous for supply cut out press. Runs between 5-7 seconds then will generate again in 45 seconds, again for between 5-7 seconds. points do not release until water not in use and 53 lbs reached. Am I wrong to think the tank should just fall to 30 and flow to 50 in one generated cycle? I have posted the most accurate info and would greatly appreciate response.



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Clamp an ammeter around the load side of the switch and measure the motor amperage. The pump may be cutting out on overload.

What exactly am I looking for. I am certain it is cutting out on overload, I just haven't figured out why. amps reading sb? which side of switch is load side. I have figured line side motor side of wiring. And have 240v on both. I apologize for the

When you replaced the pressure gauge and switch, did you also change out the pipe nipple(s)? I have seen a few cases where mud, debris etc. can build up inside the Tee and the nipple up to the pressure switch which can interfere with the switch operation, the "plug" prevents the switch from sensing the actual main pressure.

i just replaced the pressure tank as well and I am getting the same result. Pump runs for 5 seconds, stops for 45 seconds and regenerates until cutoff is finally obtained at which time points release. If my pump only presents 5 gal per min I'm receiving <half gal per minute. During use I'll eventually lose pressure. The resavoir of hot water tank and press tank allow me at least some use. I guess pump has to be pulled apparently.

It's odd that the well started pumping "a ton of mud". The earth around the casing may have shifted? If the pump is over 8 years old, that's another factor that's not making it look good for the home team. At your wellhead there should be a hose bib type valve. Turn on a faucet inside the house and let it run until the pump kicks on, then open the head valve, see how much mud blows out, if it starts to run clear get a 5 gallon bucket and a stopwatch to see how long takes to fill. You can estimate the flow rate of the pump. If it's much less than 7 GPM, I'd start calling well service pros and get several estimates.

Sir
The response is greatly appreciated.
There is nothing at the well itself I can see other than casing, wires, rope. With flashlight I can see the shoe. Will the bypass on the manifold at press tank with a hose and bucket tell me? I have had a lot of local blasting which concerns me.
The well cap 345ft 147ft casing, 5 gpm Never had a problem in 15 years with pres or water. Its been a good well but I too am concerned of collapse as its more prob than gone dry. The water delivered now is quite clean but at 5 gpm if it only runs 5 seconds, what am I getting .4 gpm. I have a line wire and motor wire into switch and have read volt a 240 on both. Someone said check amp on load side of pump. Not sure what to do there.



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You should only read 240v on MOTOR leads when contacts are CLOSED. When contacts are open, you should get 240v on line, and nothing on motor leads. I am assuming you do not have a control box for your pump motor. Yes, if you have a hose-bib type valve on your manifold to pressure tank, you can check your flow rate there. Use a short piece of hose into a bucket. If the hose bib valve is AFTER the pressure switch, all you do is open it, pump will kick in. Close off the main valve to the rest of the house. If your hose bib valve is BEFORE the pressure switch, you will need to open a valve in the house somewhere to drop the pressure down until the switch contacts close, then, once the pump is running, open the bleeder hose, and close off the house main and use stopwatch for one full minute.

If the pump stops before one full minute, and the contacts are still closed, your pump is shot. You can probably get a friendly electrician to clamp on an amp-meter for less than you can buy one. If the current draw of the pump motor exceeds the the nameplate stamped rating, your pump is shot. Probably some of that "ton of mud" you reported got past the worn seals of the pump and damaged the bearings causing the pump to not only pull too much current, but overheat until the thermal safety overload switch opens up.

I just re-read your post... you've had this well pump in service for 15 years? Uh Oh. None of them have a lifetime warranty, you know. Had to rpl mine after 8 years. Could be time to bite the big one.



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