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 Sharkbite or Compression Couplings?
Author: Deb (ID)

I have a cabin with a broken 1/2" copperline underneath, actually a line separated from a 90, caused by the line freezing. There is no foundation and virtually no crawl space. It is on some kind of bedrock and cannot be dug out at all. There are old creosoted timbers underneath the cabin and all the water lines are covered in heat tape and insulation. To make a long story short--it is not safe to solder down there. So, what is my next best option. I need to replace heat tape and insulation and some of it inaccessible, so I cannot remove it all--I just kind of have to wind it around the pipes and make my repairs. I plan to cut out the 90 and some of the pipe, sweat a 90 to 2 pieces of pipe and use either sharkbite couplings or compression couplings to repair. Considering that it has heat tape and insulation over it, what do you deem the best?

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 Re: Sharkbite or Compression Couplings?
Author: bernabeu (SC)

compression = metal to metal seal, can be tightened more if necessary

sharkbite = rubber to metal seal, plastic outer shell


IMO: COMPRESSION would be best

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

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 Re: Sharkbite or Compression Couplings?
Author: KCRoto (MO)

If you are familiar with using compression fittings, I would probably go with them. If you aren't used to using compression fittings, the shark bites are more user friendly to a layman.

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 Re: Sharkbite or Compression Couplings?
Author: Fixitangel (NC)

I would lean toward a compression coupling, however a word to the wise: anytime a pipe bursts it swells up near the point of failure, so try to make your pipe cuts back aways from the failed joint; try to make sure the pipe is round and straight, not bent, curved, dinged or flattened. De-burr the cut ends and dress them, use fine emory cloth or a new scrubby pad on the ends to clean off any crud or old flux buildup. Use a little dab of plumbers grease on the cut ends before assembly.

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