Over 698,000 strictly plumbing related posts
Plumbing education, information, advice, help and suggestions are provided by some of the most experienced plumbers who wish to "give back" to society. Since 1996 we have been the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice site. If you have questions about plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, drains, sewers, water filters, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, and other strictly PLUMBING related issues then you've come to the right place. Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, or pricing, or where to purchase products, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups and we don't tract you. We absolutely do not sell your personal information. We are made possible by:
Author:
tjgbrew (NJ)
Hey all – I just did a major plumbing job in my house, including putting in a three valve bypass for a water softener. Now, just as I am about to solder my last two connections for the softener, I notice one of the ball valves is leaking. It is a brand new Watts but there are beads of water that slowly form at the seam near the middle of the valve. It is very slow, almost non existant, but ignoring it seems reckless.
It seems like a fatal problem right? It is in a bad position, so is the only option replacing it? (I assume I should replace all three since they are close and I’m now concerned about the others)
Followup question: What could have caused this? These things aren’t cheap.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
KCRoto (MO)
It may be a loose packing nut under the handle of the valve. Remove the handle, tighten it a quarter turn, and put the handle back on and see if it stops. A guy I worked with had it happen to him on 3 different occasions, but I never had the same problem.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
replacing is the only option.
i wouldn't change the other two.
the valves are made in china but are expensive because of the no-lead laws in force.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
tjgbrew (NJ)
Many thanks. Definitely not the packing nut but many thanks for the suggestions. I was definitely hoping for an easier fix.
The set up (so close and mounted close to a wall) means cutting the whole thing out. I figure I'll replace all three because the heat from desoldering and rebuilding would probably stress the remaining valves... And I'm not feeling so great about their ability to survive.
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
bernabeu (SC)
use full port threaded ball valves (with adapters if necessary)
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
|
Post Reply
|
Please note:
- Inappropriate messages or blatant advertising will be deleted. We cannot be held responsible for bad or inadequate advice.
- Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages posted here. Please follow external links with caution.
- Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing related advice and NOT to ask about pricing/costs, nor where to find a product (try Google), nor how to operate or promote a business, nor for ethics (law) and the like questions.
- Plbg.com is also not a place to ask radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical or even general construction type questions. We are exclusively for plumbing questions.
Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:
Special thanks to our sponsor:
|