Hello...

I have had water supply issues over the last year or so. I'm sure they are related somehow, but not sure exactly how. When I say water supply, I mean the pressure system inside the house, not the actual well supply.

Let me explain what the current situation is.

Pump cut-on is supposed to be 30 and cut-off is supposed to be 50.

Yesterday I drained down my pressure tank and recharged it. The pressure at the gauge on the tank was dropping below the cut-in point. I turned the supply off to the house (after the pressure tank) isolating the system to only well, pump, and pressure tank. All water was drain out of tank. Tank was re-pressurized to 28psi.

Which I pressurized the tank the air gauge on the filler hose read 28 PSI, but the water gauge read 0. I'm assuming this was correct, since there was no water in the tank.

I also swapped out the brass bolt on the top of the pump (this is used for priming) with another on the side of the pump because threads were worn off. I lost some water when I swapped these two out.

I also installed a check valve between pump and tank. There was no check valve in this system anywhere.

I had to re-prime the pump, which I did yesterday.

What is happening right now is that the pump is not cutting in at 30, and it is cutting out slightly above 50 however when it cuts out, it short cycles... it runs until it hits the high limit, and then it short cycles 2 to 3 seconds on, and about 1 second off. It will eventually stop, but I can see the brass plate inside the pump switch (the thing with the contacts and two adjuster nuts) bouncing.

Yes I have been trying to adjust the two pump switch springs, but don't think I've quite got it right yet. From what its doing I think I still have to raise the cut-on (the number 1 nut) and then back off the #2 nut, since the high limit is too high.

My tank just finished filling it cut off at just over 50, but has been short cycling for about 5 minutes. It just stopped doing that for about 20 seconds, and has again started sort cycling for the interval mention above.

I'm capable of performing repairs, however, I'm at the end of my troubleshooting abilities with pump systems.

Is the switch located on the pump or on the tank ? The check valve should be before the pump + tank.

You may be able to buy some time with the installation of a backwater valve in your main sewer line from the house. Wherever it is placed it must remain serviceable at all times.

I would shut the pump down and de-pressurize the water and check the air pressure again. If it's still 28 psi, good. If not your tank probably needs rpl.

RE: Is the switch located on the pump or on the tank ? The check valve should be before the pump + tank.

The switch is mounted on the pump. It trips off at 50PSI.
Check valve has been removed for now, a ball valve in its place allows me to isolate pump and tank.

RE:You may be able to buy some time with the installation of a backwater valve in your main sewer line from the house. Wherever it is placed it must remain serviceable at all times.

I'm not sure what this is and how it helps me with my fresh water. I dont now what a backwater valve is.

RE:I would shut the pump down and de-pressurize the water and check the air pressure again. If it's still 28 psi, good. If not your tank probably needs rpl.

Did this, air pressue was consistent with pressure I added.