Hello all,
Is there a way to fix damage to the internal surface of a brass housing for Moen single valve. The piece was damaged during removal of a stuck valve. Thank you in advance FIRST POST


Im thinking solder and then file and sand down to level with the brass?

edit: i cannot see the image here?

[flic.kr]



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quote; The piece was damaged during removal of a stuck valve.

PRobably not. Those surfaces are sealed by "O" Rings and you probably would not be able to get it to the correct dimensions needed. That is a good example of using "brute force" instead of calling a professional.I, and lot of other plumbers, could have removed the "valve" in a matter of minutes, no matter HOW "stuck" it was, without damaging the valve body. At this stage, unless your "chewing gum" patch works, you will have to replace the valve.

would need to 'hard braze' and then machine (perhaps by hand sanding) to SMOOTH finish

brazing would require 1050 - 1400 degrees Fahrenheit depending on 'filler rod'

not practical (if even possible) to perform 'in position' w/o damage

since removal would most likely be needed for repair, may as well replace

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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@hj Thanks for the reply. I hope you didn't hurt your finger wagging it so hard.



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@bernabeau thank you for the useful information.

hj wags his finger at me and never hurts it. you have to forgive him as he is a arizona D'backs fan.
anyway, i don't think you need to braze the valve body just to fill a couple of deep scratches. if you did braze it, the filing and sanding would be very difficult because the solder is rock hard.
you will need to clean it very, very well and somehow get some soft solder to adhere and fill the deep scratches.
hey, it is worth a try.. good luck...

You don't have to like it, but Hj is right. Removing a plastic cartridge with a drill wasn't a good move. Those gouges are too deep to mess with. You can spend 20 hours trying, or man up and replace what you broke. Or call a plumber to replace it. Did you forget to remove the clip?

No, because I have had some which were NOT that bad and still had to be replaced. I try to tell people, "Stop when you are within 2 minutes of your level of incompetency", but they don't.

Those are NOT "deep scratches", they are "GROOVES". and one thing you would NOT want to do would be "braze" the body.

The rod I braze with needs a LOT more than 1400 degrees.

It was probably a brass cartridge, but still not a "smart" move.

I have extensive experience as a jeweler done lots of hard silver soldering of silver, nickel silver, brass and copper. I can flux and pull silver or led solder. I just am not so experienced controlling heat transfer in cast brass fixture with copper pipes attached. I do have a good hand held flexible shaft grinder sander buffer so I will give it a go while attached. The ruts are near the front so I am hoping heat sinks around the work area will prevent damage.

Good luck. I don't imagine that it will be successful, but try if you want. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

i would use 50/50 lead solder. heat sinks all around and use a good pin point flame.
hey, what have you got to lose. it will either work or it won't.

35/65 'wiping' solder may work

50/50 will NOT 'build up' to any appreciable extent


since it is broke NOW - feel free to give it a try

I, too, have been known to relieve myself into the wind

good luck

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

quote; I, too, have been known to relieve myself into the wind

MOre than once? Just don't hang glide off a cliff into the wind.

@kcroto yes it was a dumb impatient stressed out family has to take a shower now blowout situation. A drill was used to create channels for vinegar to loosen up a very mineralized valve. It was extracted showers were had drips were duly noted. I dont mind finger wagging but you know we are all a bit old for that arent we. Its not as if I tried to tie into the stack with a new toilet or built a heated floor system. It is a valve replacement. Ostensibly removable.

Thank you everyone. It has been very informative. Thank you all for your feedback, even the finger wagging I am going to tackle this wednesday and post up a picture just for the giggles. Im sure there is a certain level of satisfaction that comes with laughing at a guy who is not a plumber take a little valve changeout into total FUBAR territory. Way too much time researching and dealing with this. lol



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Keep track of the time you spend on it, including removing the core, so we know how many dollars we could have saved you, because, normally, it would have cost in the $150.00-200.00 range, total.

Quote

quote; I, too, have been known to relieve myself into the wind

MOre than once? Just don't hang glide off a cliff into the wind.

Yep

sometimes the wind blows in circles



==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Circles?...No wonder Dorothy and Toto looked a little damp when they landed!