I have two pvc pipes coming off my water heater to the exterior of my home that continue to drain water into my yard. One is for the relief valve and I replaced the relief valve. What is the other one? It continues to drip causing a puddle on my lawn. What would cause it to continuously drip? Is that normal?

No, it's not normal. If you could show a picture of it we could give better information.

I am not sure where two pipes could connect to the water heater. One may be an AC condensate line.

Could someone had hard piped to the drain valve in order to make draining the tank more convenient? And the drain valve leaking?

Anything is possible but some photos would really help.

you need to upload photo of the pipe so that i can resolve that problem.

[i284.photobucket.com]

Here is a link to a picture. I guess the smaller PVC pipe, causing the issue, is not connected directly to the water heater. it is connected just above the water valve. Thanks for the help!



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It is not the air conditioner because that is located on the other side of the house. Thank you for your response.

See picture in previous post.

That's a pressure relief valve. You need to check the pressure of the incoming water.
The pressure may be too high due to a faulty reducing valve.

Im confused. I replaced the pressure relief valve on the larger pvc pipe. It is the smaller pvc pipe that is draining.

IT is a "secondary pressure relief valve" in addition to the T&P valve on the heater. Usually used if someone wants to keep the pressure less than the 150 psi of the T&P valve.

Then it is either defective, OR your pressure is higher than its setting.

Where do I find this valve? what does it look like?

I have located the secondary relief valve. How do I adjust it or should I just replace it?

FIRST check your system pressure to see if it is too high, because that would mean the valve is doing EXACTLY what it is supposed to do. NOt all of them are adjustable, If it is bad, replace it.

How do I check the pressure? Sorry for all the questions!

At this point you call an actual LICENSED, INSURED, BONDED plumber for an 'on site' evaluation.

The Temperature and Pressure SAFETY Relief Valve on the heater itself must NOT be tampered with or modified - if the new one 'leaks' it is most likely actually performing its' job.

The pressure relief valve on the cold water feed may or may not be functional - it's job is to relieve excess pressure in the cold water piping - usually set for 80 psi.

However, you may need an actual pressure reducing valve on the cold water MAIN to your home if the supply pressure is high (80 or above psi).

Put a 'hose cock' maximum reading gauge on an outside hose cock or laundry sink faucet (open the valve) and see what you have for a maximum pressure after a few hours.

If 80+ you will need to have a pressure reducing valve installed (or have the one you have repaired/replaced).


the red pointer is moved by the black gauge needle and 'records' the highest pressure

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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Could also be a faulty thermal expansion tank or lack there of. If there is backflow protection installed near the incoming water supply you must have an expansion tank or your relief valves will always leak.