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Author:
Zack (GA)
Hey there to anyone that has some know how here I would be very grateful for some knowledge. I just discovered this forum and hope it will be my saving grace. I have renovated my garage and created a new addition. This included a bathroom with a sink, shower and toilet. We have an existing tank and have already been cleared by the city to add and additional line to the existing septic system. What I need to know is this. We have an additional hole on the side of our septic tank that just sits there open. This hole is located on the left side of the first tank adjacent to the entrance(main) inlet pipe coming from the home. It is an open hole in the cement and is about 4" in diameter. We had a service man come to the house and tell us it is for an additional line however I needed to know definitively that it is indeed for this purpose and also if I run a line to it does the waste pipe that I run from the new addition to this hole just sit inside of it above the scum layer?
What concerns me is that I am aware of there usually being a baffle at the point of the inlet and outlet lines. Also I am aware that the best way to tie into the existing tank is to use the existing inlet. However this is not possible as the plumbing is under the slab which is above the new addition and cannot be tied in outside because there would be zero pitch it would have to go up hill. So this is not possible.
So to summarize I need to know if the hole on the side of the tank is for an additional drain and also if that additional drain is added does it just slip into the tank and rest above the scum allowing the waste and water to just fall into the tank? I am planning on adding this line as I already have the pipe sticking out of the house on the side. I just need to dig the trench and run the pipe but I don't want to cause problems in my tank.
Thank you in advance for anyones help!
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
The second hole should be fine to run the line in, and if it has already been approved in respect to the size of the tank, then the biggest problem is going to be finding someone to get inside the tank to finish the install. In all honesty, the pipe being open wouldn't hurt a thing, but around my area, the inspectors require a 90 installed on the line going into the tank (according to the guys that install tanks around here, I don't install septics myself). I would check with the inspector to see what they require, and if they will even checkā¦
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Author:
packy (MA)
adding more bathrooms doesn't mean additional capacity is needed for a septic tank. adding more bedrooms does...
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Author:
m & m (MD)
Most tanks today come with three entry points, two sides and one front and center, all at the same elevation. When I use a side entry, I extend the pipe far enough thru so that the end of it can be seen from the center inlet lid. No need to get in the tank, just mortar the pipe-to-hole when finished.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
What you do or have to do depends on how the tank was made. The new connection MUST have a "baffle" whether it is a concrete "wall" as part of the tank, or a tee on the end of the pipe. However, if the pipe from the house is too high, the new opening should be at exactly the same height, so using it should not be a benefit. And, I have never heard of a tank being made with an unused "open" opening.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
ALL input lines require a 'baffle' or weir .
you should NOT add an additional feed line at a lower elevation than the existing line
else
backfeed into new line
at this point you WILL need a pro
or
pay a LOT more later after attempted 'rube goldberg'
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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