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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
new house
Ive done a simple gravity loop recirc line to a master shower and back to the water heater...always seems to work by gravity...never needed a pump....very common
but a new builder wants the loop to every fixture......so im wondering how it would work
would you leaveit all 1/2"
just have a line teeing off each sink,tub,shower and going back to one 1/2" recirc line with a pump at the heater???
never done it, so wondering if thats all there is too it....i would guess an extra 4+ hours for a 3.5 bath house + materials....plus another 1 hour to install the pump and tie it in at the water heater........
opinions?
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Author:
jblanche (WI)
Not sure exactly how my experience would translate to a pumped system but ... Maybe just put a balancing valve on each return line?
I have two 1/2" gravity recirc loops in my house. One serves a first-floor and a second-floor bathroom. The other serves the kitchen. I have two swing checks on the basement ceiling and from there a tee to connect both to a 1/2" line into the water heater bottom drain port.
I put balancing valves on each return. I have the kitchen balancing valve wide open, and the second-floor valve half open. Without partially closing the second-floor valve, the kitchen loop tends to stop flowing.
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Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
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I am not a plumber.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
IMO:
If it were my new construction home;
Run a continuous 1" WELL INSULATED hot water loop and branch off 1/2" LOCALLY keeping branches SHORT.
A good quality circulator will maintain temp through the loop.
METICULOUS insulation would be the key.
Good luck
ps. ? can the end purchaser really afford a quality built McMansion ?
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
packy (MA)
and just WHAT is wrong with mcmansions????
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Author:
packy (MA)
waukeshaplumbing, i assume you are running pex to all the fixtures. i did something similar by mounting a remote manifold in a central location. ran 1 inch from the water heater to the manifold and a 1/2 inch gravity return to the water heater drain valve location. the manofold stayed nice and warm.
the hot was not recirculated to every fixture but the wait time was much less.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
mcmansion:home=meat patty:steak
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
hj (AZ)
YOU are going to create a rat's nest and potential problems. The first thing you have to avoid is the water from one recirc line flowing to another faucet through IT'S recirc line. Then you have to have a method of balancing the flows so they all get at least some circulation. And if a check valve sticks you will have to try to find out which one it is.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
or
best practice as in my post above
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
i bid the job for a gravity recirc......1 return line from the furthest shower back to the bottom of the water heater...simple/easy....it has always worked by gravity for me
i told him he needs to define what he means by having a separate line off each fixture...i would think it would cause some fixtures to recirc and other not to....or even work backwards...
i also told him we could use the grundfos comfort system and recirc valve under every sink...its expensive, but skips using any recirc lines....i have used this system on many remodels and additions, but never a new home
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Author:
packy (MA)
i don't think i would even attempt to run a recirc line off every fixture. gravity or forced it would be a nightmare.
temperature sensors at each fixture connected to a large multiple zone relay control that open and close zone valves, one for each fixture. then there has to be a bronze circulator running 24/7.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
Note: For purpose of illustration all H/W loads are shown as a kitchen faucet.
INSULATE ALL LINES
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
Edited 2 times.
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