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Author:
slavie (NY)
So I've grown a little wiser since my last post. Also, my bathroom design changed a bit - going with in-wall toilet now.
I made some progress on the rough-in, so here's the piping roughly laid out in it's final location.
Note: it's not straight and pitched yet, just threw it all together for now. Also, ignore the piping underneeath - that's the previous design with regular toilet and will get removed.
So how does it look? Thanks.
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
It's beginning look good, by code you can not use a 4" X 2" tee on it's back, it must be a combination.
If you're using a back flush toilet, I would vent the toilet with a 3" tee directly behind the toilet flange, and run on up with a 2" vent.
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Author:
packy (MA)
i would leave the toilet vent as you have it and tie the tub into it. use a 2" sanitary tee with the branch aimed at the tub trap location. you will not need to seperately vent the tub this way.
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Author:
slavie (NY)
NCP, I'll be using the Toto WT152M wall carrier for the toilet, so can't vent it that way unfortunately.
Also, not sure if what you mean when you say "use a 4" X 2" tee on it's back". If you're talking about the lav drain, then it's already a 4x2 wye 1/8 bend combo, you just can't see it in the pic. The only tee I have is the 4x2 toilet vent, but that's going up vertically.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
slavie (NY)
packy, the problem is, I don't have enough depth under slab to do what you're talking about - that line would almost have to run in the new concrete slab - . I can't go any deeper on the main branch-off either, as there's the drainage pipe running underneath that I'm crossing above with 1/2" to spare.
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Author:
packy (MA)
OK, lets try layout #2..
i am not a big fan of a kitchen draining into the same 2" pipe as a tub. a sink full of water is liable to back up into the tub.
i would use a 4 x 2 x 2 double "Y" instead of a 4 x 2 "Y".
use one branch for the kitchen and the other for the tub. get rid of the 4 x 2 san tee that you call a toilet vent and put a 2" y into the tub drain as a tub/toilet vent going up where you have the two 45's. face the branch of the 2 inch "y" up and put a 45 in it so it looks up into the wall the current 2 inch vent goes into.
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Author:
Doug E. (CA)
plumbing is hard enough...why make it harder by using cast iron?
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Author:
steve (CA)
Cast Iron might be required, just like some jurisdictions here in CA.
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Author:
slavie (NY)
Can anybody confirm how far off the wall the tub rough-in should extend? I know it needs to be 14" from the side for the tub I have chosen, but what about from the wall?
And yes, I have to use cast iron because everything will have to get inspected and the local code requires CI for soil pipes.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
YOu have to get the installation diagram for the tub you are using. IT is NOT a "generic" measurement.
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Author:
slavie (NY)
I got the dimensions (below) but they only specify the distance from the side to the tub drain. Since the drain will then connect with the overflow, where should the rough-in come out? Thanks.
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Author:
packy (MA)
the dimensions of tub waste and overflows differ slightly. but generally the center of the outlet of the overflow tee is about 1 to 1 1/4 inches inside the edge of the tub.
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Author:
slavie (NY)
Alright, so I finished everything up over the weekend, and here's the final thing.
Decided to go with a 2x6 wall, as running everything in a 2x4 would be a major hassle.
packy, thanks for your suggestion to separate the kitchen and tub drains - I never liked that to begin with, but couldn't think of anything better till your suggestion. I couldn't get a 4x2x2 wye here, so I just ran two 4x2 wyes.
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