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Author:
CowboyRon (CA)
I have a nut that is thoroughly rusted onto the toilet anchor bolt. I tried applying a penetrant, gave it a few hours to let it sit, but when I went to attempt to remove the nut I found that I was just spinning the anchor bolt. Moreover, there is only 1/4 of an inch of the bolt protruding above the nut. Any ideas on how I can get this corroded wonder off?
Thanks for your help!
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Author:
packy (MA)
i would very , very carefully try to pry the nut and washer up enough to get a hacksaw blade under it.
you have to be careful not to crack the porcelain toilet base.
congradulations to whoever installed a toilet with steel bolts and nuts. you save a dollar and caused many dollars in headaches...
BTW, kohler toilets sold thru the big box stores come as a complete package with wax ring and (that's right) steel closet bolts and nuts. anyone who buys one should also buy some brass bolts and nuts and toss the steel away..
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Author:
hj (AZ)
USe a hacksaw to cut the nut into two halves then pry them away from the bolt with a screwdriver.
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
A hacksaw will work, although a roto-zip with metal cutting blade would be faster.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
I'd say, use a dremel, although some think it's too slow.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
A lot of things would be "faster" but they might not have them. I would use my Milwaukee HackZaw.
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Author:
sum (FL)
Dremel, angle grinder, sawzall, all would work.
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Author:
CowboyRon (CA)
Thank you for your replies. And Packy thank you for reiterating my sentiments on whomever put in that toilet in the first place! I took the caps off, saw the rusted bolts and said, "why?"
The hack saw solution was arduous but it did work. Getting the hacksaw under the washer resulted in me hacking off half of the washer. This gave me just enough room to shove a screwdriver in the bolt hole and pin the bolt to the side. Since I had used a liberal amount of penetrant the day before I was able to use the ratchet and after playing around for a few minutes, break the rust seal.
So for the buck or so they saved by using steel nuts and bolts, it cost me a couple hours leaning over a toilet in a position that never afforded me much leverage. Again, thanks to everyone for their help.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Included in that "buck they saved" was a second set of nuts and washers that would have secured the bolt to the flange so it could NOT spin, regardless of what it was made of.
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Author:
packy (MA)
you could put 14 nuts and washers on the bolt. it won't matter as long as they are steel, they will rust and cause a problem at some time.actually, 'best practice' would be carbon molybdenum bolts with 15% silver added for corrosion resistance. they could then be gold electroplated to give added protection.
the cost would approach 145 dollars a set but you either pay now or pay later.
P/S, a little sarcasm aimed at my friend from SC.. :>
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
C46400 / CDA 464 would suffice
CuZn39Sn1
BEST practice brass alloy which resists even 'dezincification'
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
hj (AZ)
14 nuts and washers would probably raise the toilet too high off the floor to grout it to the floor. I have never had a bolt which was fastened to the flange, NOT come loose, including the two I worked on this morning.
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Author:
packy (MA)
are you saying you use plated steel closet bolts??
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Author:
hj (AZ)
I am saying that that was what they HAD already.
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Author:
TNPlumber (TN)
cheap special tool that resembles a 2 tined fork fits under nut and washer and holds while you use nut driver to get nut off. Bingo .. or a any kind sawsall w medium length metal blade.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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