I'm replacing the subfloor in my bath and I'm wonder what is the best way to remove this flange. Looks like the 3 inch copper pipe was flared, should I bend the flaring and remove or just remove at the elbow and replace the flared pipe with new? Do I need to flare the new pipe? Best regards...........







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I am not sure WHAT you have, but it looks like a cast iron flange with a lead/oakum connection to the copper. IF it is actually a brass flange, then it should be soldered to the copper riser and the copper should not be "flared".

Pretty sure it's cast brass, It's not magnetic.

it may not be soldered on

'un flare' it and see

if unsoldered:

cut 'riser' as low as you can - add a coupling and riser piece - proceed from there


if soldered:

same plan

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Looks soldered in this pictured.....

Your best bet is to remove the copper drain line itself. and replace it in plastic while you have everything open. That copper is at least 50 years old and while the 3" is probably good and strong, the smaller lines will be getting pinholes soon if they don't already. The oxidation that occurs on the top of the inside of the drains can cause leaks during backups, and allow sewer gas and insects inside the house.

It is a cast brass flange. The 3" copper riser was 'cut long' by 1/2" or so, then the flange was soldered on. Lastly, the plumber slot cut the excess pipe above the flange and peined it over for added strength. You can follow the above advice for dealing with it, or unsweat the copper from the ell and start anew from that point.

i would cut the copper right at the back end of that 3 inch "Y" and slide a no hub coupling right over it. then put a 3" PVC street 90 into it. short piece of 3" PVC up to a new flange and you'll be just fine..

Packy, if Lady Luck is on his side he'll be fine, but most likely he'll find that there is a difference between copper pattern fittings and PVC pattern fittings and the PVC 'fix' will be riding a tad high.

it's hard to tell but it looks like (his second photo) a short copper nipple between the copper 90 and the flange.
he can always use a 3" vent 90 if he needs to..

...vent 90... non-code approved for that application but we've all used them when nothing else worked.

the bend is no more nor less than the old cast iron closet bend that was used from the time hj was in diapers.

It is a cast brass flange. The 3" copper riser was 'cut long' by 1/2" or so, then the flange was soldered on. Lastly, the plumber slot cut the excess pipe above the flange and peined it over for added strength. You can follow the above advice for dealing with it, or unsweat the copper from the ell and start anew from that point

That's what I thought. I'm thinking I'd unsweat at the ell and get a new riser and sweat it to the ell and the flange. The old brass flange looks fine, is it ok to use or should I get a new one? Is it necessary to peen it over?

Thanks for your help........DC



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You should be able to unsweat the flange after bending the tabs inward. And the flange should be reusable; just wipe down the excess solder while still molten. Once its cool, take emery cloth and clean the solder residual down to the brass.

Tried unsweating the riser at the elbow, but it doesn't seem to want to come loose! What am I doing wrong?

IT should NOT have been peened over in the first place. Doing so prevents you from just heating it and sliding it off the pipe.It looks like there is a joist right in front of the elbow, and if so, you may not have enough room to remove it without cutting the pipe.

You need a LOT of heat all the way around the joint. The whole solder joint has to be "melted" before it will come loose.

sometimes it nice to have someone else apply the heat while the second wrestles it off with a channel locks.

Unsweat the flange first. Then cut out as much copper riser as you can but leave about 3" protruding up out of the ell. Then heat the joint from the inside of the ell to unsweat the remaining riser. ViseGrips are your friend for this job.

you will need a LARGE torch to unsweat the BRASS flange which will act as a 'heatsink'

you will need an EXPERIENCED helper

you will NOT regret having an actual plumber do the removal and new 'stub-out'


you can then 'finish' at your leisure

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638