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Author:
jwcohen1960 (NJ)
Adding a new bathroom (roughly 9'x9') to a second floor renovation. The Boss (wife for those of you unfamiliar with the term) wants a free standing tub, so my question is whether to place a 5' section of forced hot water wall radiator behind the tub, or to rely solely upon the bathroom fan (Nutone 110CFM, 1500W heater).
A small section of the bathroom is outside wall - a 30" vanity will be installed on this wall. The tub will be in front of inside walls.
Thoughts?
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Author:
packy (MA)
i have two thoughts..
1) a small toespace heater under the vanity if you want to stay with your current hydronic heating system.
2) you can install a radiant electric heating blanket under the tile.
[www.thisoldhouse.com]
P/S, i have done a few bathrooms where radiant electric was installed and the customers all loved it..
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Author:
jwcohen1960 (NJ)
Thanks Packy. Love the toekick idea - it has been recommended by others as well.
The potential issue with the toekick is the vanity and whether it will be more of a base that can house the heater versus something open with legs like I suspect is what will be selected. So still more of a planning question than an execution question.
Regarding the radiant heat floor, I have some (quite a bit) of leveling that needs to be done before the floor can be installed. What is your experience with non-level floors and these electric heating mats? ON the power, is it 120 or 240, does it need to be on its own dedicated circuit, or if 120, can it be sourced from the dedicated 20A circuit to the bathroom?
Thanks
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
? how 'bout a hydronic heated towel rack / radiator ?
price it BEFORE showing the BOSS
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
KCRoto (MO)
The power draw is directly related to the area that will have the mat under it. It is actually easier to install the mat and level the floor at the same time in my opinion. My system is 110v and happens to be on a dedicated circuit, but that is because it was convenient and available space in the panel to do so. If you have a 9X9 space, you will have to take out the tub area and any other inaccessible area from that initial 81 ft2 and get your final square footage. If you you have square or rectangle shaped areas, then you can use the mats; if you have odd shaped areas, it may be necessary to use the cables and strapping and do a custom layout. Read the installation instructions, and TEST THE INSTALL BEFORE COVERING WITH MORTAR.
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Author:
Paul48 (CT)
I don't have any direct experience with electric radiant. A friend had it, and loved it for about a year. Then the controller burned out, and evidently it was quite expensive. I guess the only problem with any electric heater, is, it will fail. Personally, I'd use panel rads with trv's and over radiate it. If you're going to be wet and naked, you want to be warm.
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Author:
george 7941 (Canada)
The controllers that are expensive are the programmable ones with set back and other features. A $10 wall thermostat used for baseboard electric heaters could be used for controlling infloor electric radiant heat. The watt density is so low that there is no risk of over heating leading to a fire.
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Author:
yonson (SC)
I recommend the embedded electric radiant floor heat. I installed mine a number of years ago and LOVE it. Nothing quite like shuffling in to take a 2am pee (TMI) and feel that warmth. Plus we always know where the cats are in the winter! I turn mine on in the fall and leave it on until spring.
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